I’ve been making my own soap for a long time, both by cold process and hot process in a crock pot. It can seem really intimidating to begin making your own soap, but everyone I know who actually tries it is amazed at how simple it is.
Hot vs. Cold Process Soap
As I explained before, both methods of soap making use water, lye and a combination of oils. The additional step of heating the mixture with hot process soap speeds the saponification process and results in a faster soap making process.
There are advantages and disadvantages to each type of soap. Hot process creates a faster soap, and cold process often creates a smoother soap, though I’ve found both work great on my skin.
A third option I’ve only experimented with slightly is using a melt and pour soap base (like this cocoa butter soap base or this goats milk soap base). This option does not require any Lye and is faster and easier for those who don’t want to deal with the chemistry of soap making. Essential oils, clays, salts and other natural ingredients can still be added with melt and pour soap, but I prefer to use the hot or cold process method so I can control the oil ratios in the soap.
Melt and pour soap can be a gateway into regular soap-making for those still a little hesitant to use Lye, but I’ve found that the most cost-effective and natural option is to start from scratch.
Is Lye Dangerous?
As I explained in my original soap recipe:
When Lye is used in soap-making, it is what is called a reagent, meaning it is used in a chemical reaction to create other substances. In soap making, a carefully measured water/lye mixture is blended with natural oils in a process called saponification. Lye is simply an agent used to create soap from oils and water.
There is no unreacted Lye remaining in properly made soap. If you’re considering making soap, definitely use extreme caution with unreacted lye and use a soap calculator to make sure you are using the correct ratio of water/lye/oils but don’t be afraid of this age old process.
Where to Find Lye: Some hardware stores carry Lye (sodium hydroxide) though many have stopped carrying it. I wasn’t able to find it at any of our four local hardware stores so I ordered this one online. If you have a local (not big brand) hardware store they might also be able to special order it for you.
I now feel safe using Lye for soap making, I just take precautions and don’t use it when my children or around. It is also very important to remember to add lye to the water and NOT water to the Lye (which can cause an explosion).
Clay and Charcoal?
Why add clay and charcoal to soap? When I first started experimenting with adding these to my soap recipes, I was a little unsure how they would turn out. After all, these are both great for face masks and whitening teeth, but wouldn’t they leave residue on skin?
I found that they absolutely do not leave a residue on skin, and that they are absolutely perfect for oily or acne prone skin since they are naturally anti-bacterial and toxin removing.
In fact, I made these as a body soap (and they can definitely be used that way) but I fell in love with them as a gentle facial soap that works incredibly well. I still use the oil cleansing method but for other times when I need to wash my face, I use this gentle cleansing soap.
I add activated charcoal powder and bentonite clay to this recipe. I’ve found that this also extends the life of the soap.
Calculating Percentages
I used SoapCalc.net to calculate the ratios for this soap, and I highly recommend it, especially if you are new to soap making. I wanted to use a mixture of coconut oil, olive oil and castor oil so I entered these into the soap calculator and got these percentages:
With soap making, it is very important to measure the weight. I use a digital scale and measure by grams to be most precise. This ensures that there is no remaining Lye in the recipe and that the oils fully saponify. I also keep the following tools and supplies on hand for soap making:
- A slow-cooker (I got an older one at a thrift store)
- A digital scale (this is important for making a soap that is not too harsh or too oily)
- Glass jars and bowls
- A stick blender
- plastic cups (optional)
- A metal spoon
- A wooden spoon
- A spatula
- Soap molds (or an old cardboard box lined with parchment paper). I have green flower molds, red silicon rose molds and basic bar soap molds.
- Gloves and sunglasses or eyewear
- A large bottle of white vinegar for neutralizing the lye mixture if it spills on anything.
Charcoal Soap Ingredients:
- 172.36 grams (6.08 ounces) of filtered water
- 66 grams (2.33 ounces) Lye
- 181.44 grams (6.4 ounces) Coconut Oil
- 181.44 grams (6.4 ounces) Olive Oil
- 90.72 grams (3.2 ounces) Castor Oil
- 1 tablespoon activated charcoal powder
- 1 tablespoon bentonite clay powder
- 1 ounce of essential oil of choice (or blend) I used lavender and tea tree
How to Make Charcoal Soap
- Make sure that your work area is clean, ventilated and that there are no children nearby. This is not a good recipe to let children help with since Lye is caustic until mixed with water and oils.
- Measure the oils in liquid form (by weight) and pour into the slow cooker. Turn on high just until oils heat up and then reduce to low heat. At this time, Add the clay and charcoal and use a stick blender to incorporate fully.
- While oils are heating, carefully measure the lye and water separately. TIP: This is the only thing I ever use disposable plastic cups for. They don’t weigh anything on the scale so they make measuring easy and I keep three separate cups labeled:
- Water, Lye and Oil to use for this purpose only. I reuse them each time so they aren’t wasted and I don’t worry about anyone drinking out of them since we don’t usually use these types of cups.
- Carefully take the cups with the water and the lye outside or to a well ventilated area. Pour the water into a quart size or larger glass jar. With gloves and eye protection, slowly add the lye to the water. DO NOT ADD THE WATER TO THE LYE (this is really important). Stir carefully with a metal spoon, making sure not to let the liquid come in contact with your body directly.
- As you stir, this will create a cloudy white mixture that gets really hot. Let this mixture set for about 10 minutes to cool. It should become clear and not cloudy when it has cooled.
- When the oils in the crockpot have heated (to about 120-130 degrees F), slowly pour in the water and lye mixture and stir.
- Quickly rinse the container used for the water and lye mixture out in the sink. I rinse well and then re-rinse with white vinegar to make sure all Lye has been neutralized.
- Use the metal or wooden spoon to stir the lye/water mixture into the oil mixture in the crockpot. Once it is evenly mixed, use the stick blender to blend for about 4-5 minutes or until it is opaque and starting to thicken.
- Cover and keep on low heat to thicken. I set a timer for 15 minutes and check it every 15 minutes until it is ready. It will start to boil and bubble on the sides first. After about 35-55 minutes (depending on crock pot) it will thicken enough that the entire surface is bubbly and the sides have collapsed in.
- At this point, turn the heat off and remove the crock. If you are going to use essential oils for scent, add them now. I added lavender and orange.
- Quickly and carefully spoon into molds. I’ve often heard of people using empty Pringles containers but haven’t tried it. I have used empty boxes lined with parchment paper.
- Cover the molds with parchment paper and set in a cool, dry place.
After 24 hours, pop the soap out of the molds. It can be used right away, but I prefer to let it set for a few more days so that it lasts longer.
This soap will leave a little bit of residue in the bottom of the shower over time, but I’ve found that this is easy to clean with a quick microfiber wipe down each day.
Ever made your own soap? How did it go?
What a great idea for additives to soap!
I make and sell thousands of hot process soaps each year.
I wanted to let you know to be careful what kind of metal spoon and utensils you use. NEVER use aluminum- it will react with lye! Always use stainless steel. Also another pointer for lye spills- just douse with water. The more water than lye dilutes it and takes its burning caustic effects away. Vinegar does not actually work well…don’t ask me how I know but the burns are bad. :/
I quit making soap for fun since I make so much now for my business but I may just whip up a little batch and try this out! Thanks Katie!!!
Can I make this as a CP soap and just let it cure for 6 weeks? I don’t want to wreck my crock pot. Thanks!?
So I’ve read the instructions a couple of times, since soap making is on my to-do list this year, and I’ve been wanting to try charcoal face soap. I think I’m missing at what point in the process the charcoal and clay go in? Do you put them in when the essential oils are added?
I put them in with the oils at the beginning. From the instructions: Measure the oils in liquid form (by weight) and pour into the slow cooker. Turn on high just until oils heat up and then reduce to low heat. At this time, Add the clay and charcoal and use a stick blender to incorporate fully.”
I love making soap. This recipe sounds great! I’ve added bentonite clay to some facial soap, but not the charcoal. I’ll be adding this to my list. Thanks!
Good morning, Do I have to use LYE?? what would be the difference if I don’t?
Please let me know
Thank you!!
Yes. Lye is not dangerous when used in soap making (just use precautions when handling it.) Lye is what saponifies the oils and turns them into soap. Without it, this would not be soap, but a mix of oils and clay.
I have been making soap for about 2 years now. My favorite hobby. I only use soap bases that I get at Hobby Lobby, Michaels, or on line. So easy and so much fun. Don’t forget to look for coupons. I have added tea, oatmeal, turmeric, coffee, charcoal, chai seeds, etc. My favorite is using Lemongrass essential oil in clear glycerin base with a bit of green mica powder for color then place a couple of fresh lemongrass circles on top for looks. I also use a little Vitamin E oil for added moisture and as a preservative. Don’t waste your money on molds. There are hundreds of food containers that work well…just clean them out well with distilled vinegar.
Hello , I’ ve been interested in making soap lately and just ordered a soap making book on amazon, just wondering what you met by getting your soap base at the stores you mentioned . What is a soap base ? Sorry , I’ m just learning about the art and science of making soap . Thanks , Joyce
Another name for soap bases is Melt and Pour. Ck out Bramble Berry.com and click onMelt and Pour soap bases. No mess no fuss. Except for the melting of the bases in the microwave, this is fun for kids too. I have made soaps that look like layered cakes, cup cakes, and the like but have now stayed with plain soaps filled with natural added ingredients. Pinterest and utube are great websites to get ideas. Learning what the different essential oils are good for is a must for soap making. Important for what type of skin one is cleaning.
In hobby lobby, go to the section where there is candle making and soap making supplies. You should see A soap section that will have molds, scents, colors, and additives for soaps. Among these, usually on a lower shelf, you will see rectangular plastic containers with indentations on the bottom of the containers. They are around the size of a sheet of paper but around 1.5 inches thick. The container has either clear (glycerin) or white (olive, coconut, or Shea) soap base in it. To use, you cut out the amount of soap base you desire, melt in microwave, then add the extra oils, petals, scents or clay. Pour in mold, cool to harden and use. These are melt and pour soaps. You can use them right away. Lye has already been added and the chemical reaction has been completed prior to them being packaged and sold. So there is no cooking (hot process) or waiting ( cold process).
Warning…soap making is addicting. Enjoy
Hi! Just made this recipe and placed in a cool dry place. After it was bubly in the crock, I stared it and put into a mold. It Seemed kinda lumpy, not very smooth texture to it at all. Is this normal? My hubby followed along and it seems that we followed the recipe as stated.
So, instead of the lye, do you use the same ratio of soap bases or “pourable” soap? I don’t want to get into using lye……..
A Melt and Pour soap base looks like a big square chunk of soap or it comes in a square tub. Melt it and add what you want. The lye is already in it.
Hi Katie, I’m from Nigeria. I love the lesson. Could you put me through more natural soap recipes pls? I’m thinking of starting my own soap business in a little way. Thanks.
Check out soap queen
Is there a way to make soap without the Lye? Being pregnant and having a toddler around me all the time makes me terrified I’ll get it wrong. Thanks! ????
I’d have someone else mix the lye and water for you, but without the lye, these will just be oils and clay.
Ashley, there is no soap without using lye in the process. What you can do is use an organic melt and pour base, which is essentially what Katie said, having someone else handling the lye for you, and is mentioned in her post as well. What you do in the “melt and pour” method is melt the soap base then add and mix to it any additive such as the charcoal, clay and essential oils, and pour into molds.
Although you won’t come into contact with lye in this method, still you will be handling hot melted soap, so you will have to be careful.
It is also quite hard to find a pure organic M&P base, so be meticulous with checking ingredients. Have fun!
Katie, I really like this recipe, and did a CP batch with it. I’m sure a lot of people will enjoy it, thank you for sharing!
If I used a mix and pour base how much do I use to keep to this recipe?
Hi Katie! Thank you so much for being such an inspiration! I was wondering if you needed to add the essential oils in the calculations? Thank you!
I don’t since they are such a small amount.
Just a concern I have, soap needs to cure for 2-6 weeks in order to fully saponify the lye.. Why are you telling people you can use it right away?
This recipe is written as a hot process soap, and the heat speeds up this process. Cold process soaps do need this amount of time.
Hi.. thank you for the recipe.. but can i make it on stove.. i dont have a crockpot..
I will save this for my soap-making endeavors this year, Katie. I am still intimidated by the thought but you make it sound interesting and so worth it. Thank you very much for being generous with your knowledge.
I was nervous too but tried her crock pot soap recipe over Christmas and it turned out great! I’m so excited to keep trying these out and making soap for a small fraction of what it costs to buy it 🙂
There some great soap making videos online. Soap Queen offers a great toturial. That’s how I learned and u started my own line. Wants u make one batch you’re gonna wanna make more.
Since making this soap is too far above my head, I was wondering if I could purchase this from you. Thank you, Celina
Try the Fresh Face charcoal soap at Bombshellbath.com only $4 per bar!
I used this charcoal soap I found on Amazon by Destiny Boutique: https://www.amazon.com/Destiny-Boutique-895858002432-Charcoal-Facial/dp/B0161RXFBG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=wellnessmama-20&linkId=2f2608d220e7564b1988130f0fc9123c&language=en_US