Basic Slow Cooker Soap Recipe

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Slowcooker Crockpot Basic Soap Recipe with coconut oil and olive oil
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I’ve been fascinated with soap making for a long time. What was once a common household skill now seems like such a complicated process that many people simply buy soap instead. Unfortunately, many conventional soaps have additives, antibacterial ingredients and artificial fragrances.

Slow Cooker Soap Tutorial

I first started using homemade soap when I realized that it was the most cost effective way to get an all-natural soap.

I buy all ingredients in bulk so for under $10 I can make 12-18 big bars of organic soap. Store-bought alternatives cost 4-5 times that amount.

A Word About Lye

Many people are afraid to try recipes that use Lye, but I’ve found that much of this fear is based on misinformation.

Yes, Lye (or Sodium Hydroxide) is extremely dangerous by itself. It can cause skin damage, blindness (with eye contact) and death (if ingested). Lye in its pure form is something that can be very harmful and extreme caution should be used when using it in any way.

Lye is created through the electrolysis of sodium chloride (salt) and it creates an extremely alkaline substance. If added to water, it becomes sodium and hydroxyl ions and creates a strong exothermic (heat creating) reaction. Flashbacks to high school chemistry anyone?

Moving on…

When Lye is used in soap making, it is what is called a reagent, meaning it is used in a chemical reaction to create other substances. In soap making, a carefully measured water/lye mixture is blended with natural oils in a process called saponification. Lye is simply an agent used to create soap from oils and water.

There is no unreacted Lye remaining in properly made soap. If you’re considering making soap, definitely use extreme caution with unreacted lye and use a soap calculator to make sure you are using the correct ratio of water/lye/oils but don’t be afraid of this age old process.

Where to Find Lye: Some hardware stores carry Lye (sodium hydroxide) though many have stopped carrying it. I wasn’t able to find it at any of our four local hardware stores so I ordered this one online. If you have a local (not big brand) hardware store they might also be able to special order it for you.

Hot Process vs. Cold Process

As the name suggests, the difference between these types of processing is if heat is used or not. With both methods, a water/lye mixture is used and oils are used. The two are mixed together in the process of saponification.

With cold processing, the water/lye mixture is mixed with the oil mixture and the resulting mixture is poured into insulated molds.

Hot processing adds an additional step of “cooking” the mixture which speeds the saponification process and makes the soap ready to use in days instead of weeks. Both methods work and I’ve done both, but the hot process method is much faster.

Choosing Ingredients for Soap Making

Crock pot soap ingredientsThe advantage to making soap at home is that you can use high-quality organic ingredients and still get organic soap for much cheaper than store bought options.

In this basic recipe, I used organic Coconut Oil and organic Olive Oil, though any natural oils can be used. Use this Soap Calculator to figure out how much Lye and water are needed for whatever type of oils you want to use.

Really- the world is your oyster when it comes to picking ingredients but some popular and favorite ingredients are:

Once you’ve picked your ingredients, head over to the calculator and find out how much water and Lye you need.

For this specific recipe, I used an equal mix of olive oil and coconut oil, but just pure coconut oil can be used (like this great recipe from Mommypotamus) or just olive oil can be used. If just olive oil is used, you’ll have a pure castile soap (named after that region in Spain) which is very moisturizing but can take longer to cure.

Cocount Oil and Olive Oil soap

Gathering Equipment

How Soap should look before Turning off slowcookerI personally keep separate equipment to use for soap making. I found all of my equipment at a thrift store and keep it in the garage with the soap making ingredients.

Every source I’ve seen says that it is fine to use regular kitchen equipment for soap making as long as you wash it carefully afterward (see my notes at the bottom of this post on that). At the end of the process, you are just dealing with soap, so it isn’t toxic, but cleanup can be messy. To simplify, I just keep separate tools for soap making.

I have:

Slowcooker Crockpot Basic Soap Recipe with coconut oil and olive oil
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4.25 from 66 votes

Slow Cooker Soap Recipe

This basic soap recipe uses coconut oil and olive oil and is made in a slow cooker. A simple and moisturizing recipe you can make at home!
Prep Time45 minutes
Active Time35 minutes
Resting Time1 day
Author: Katie Wells

Materials

Instructions

  • Prepare your mold. Wood molds will need to be lined with freezer paper or wax paper. Silicone molds are ready to use as is. You can also use any box if you line it with freezer paper, wax paper, or a thick garbage bag. I’ve heard of people using empty Pringles containers, but haven’t tried it.
  • Make sure that your work area is clean, ventilated and that there are no children nearby. This is not a good recipe to let children help with since lye is caustic until mixed with water and oils.
  • Weigh out 16 ounces of olive oil and 16 ounces of melted coconut oil and pour them both into the slow cooker.
  • Turn on high just until the oils heat up and then reduce to low heat.
  • While oils are heating, carefully measure the lye and water separately. TIP: This is the only thing I ever use disposable plastic cups for. They don’t weigh anything on the scale so they make measuring easy. I keep three separate cups labeled “Water”, “Lye”, and “Oil” to use for this purpose only. I reuse them each time so they aren’t wasted and I don’t worry about anyone drinking out of them since we don’t usually use these types of cups.
  • Carefully take the cups with the measured water and lye outside or to a well ventilated area.
  • Pour the water into a quart size or larger glass jar.
  • With gloves and eye protection, slowly add the lye to the water. DO NOT ADD THE WATER TO THE LYE (this is really important).
  • Stir carefully with a metal spoon, making sure not to let the liquid come in direct contact with your body.
  • As you stir, the mixture will become white and cloudy and get really hot. Let this mixture sit for about 10 minutes to cool. It should become clear when it has cooled.
  • When the oils in the slow cooker have heated to about 120-130°F, slowly stir in the water and lye mixture.
  • Quickly rinse the container used for the water and lye mixture out in the sink. I rinse well and then re-rinse with white vinegar to make sure all the lye has been neutralized.
  • Use a stick blender to blend the mixture in the slow cooker for about 4-5 minutes or until it is opaque and starting to thicken.
  • Cover and keep the slow cooker heat on low to thicken. I set a timer for 15 minutes and check it every 15 minutes until it is ready. It will start to boil and bubble on the sides first. After about 35-55 minutes (depending on the slow cooker) it will be thick enough that the entire surface is bubbly and the sides have collapsed in.
  • Turn the heat off and remove the inner bowl of the slow cooker.
  • If you are going to use essential oils for scent, add them now. I added lavender and orange.
  • Quickly and carefully spoon the mixture into the prepared molds.
  • Cover the molds with parchment paper and set them in a cool, dry place.
  • After 24 hours, pop the soap out of the molds. It can be used right away, but I prefer to let it set for a few more days so that it lasts longer.

Notes

Clean-up Tips
As I mentioned, keeping separate tools for soap making simplifies the process since things don’t have to be cleaned enough for food use. I still clean all tools carefully with dishwashing soap and water and rinse with vinegar just to be sure.
Since we are making soap, I typically soak the crock from the slow cooker with all tools in it for 8+ hours to dissolve and use the soapy water to help clean all the tools.

Ever made soap? How did it go? Share your favorite recipe below in the comments!

This basic soap recipe uses coconut oil and olive oil and is made in a crockpot or slowcooker. A simple and moisturizing recipe you can make at home!

Katie Wells Avatar

About Katie Wells

Katie Wells, CTNC, MCHC, Founder of Wellness Mama and Co-founder of Wellnesse, has a background in research, journalism, and nutrition. As a mom of six, she turned to research and took health into her own hands to find answers to her health problems. WellnessMama.com is the culmination of her thousands of hours of research and all posts are medically reviewed and verified by the Wellness Mama research team. Katie is also the author of the bestselling books The Wellness Mama Cookbook and The Wellness Mama 5-Step Lifestyle Detox.

Comments

322 responses to “Basic Slow Cooker Soap Recipe”

  1. Amanda Avatar
    Amanda

    Oh my! Love the blog. I use bulk apothecary for my soap materials. How do these soap supplies compare to yours?

  2. Mera Avatar

    I would like to make this recipe for my bridal shower giveaways but I bought plastic molds at michaels and I’m wondering if I can let the mixture cool a bit before placing them in the molds that I bought because if i put them in right away, the molds might melt?

    1. Stephanie T Avatar
      Stephanie T

      To be honest, if you’ve never made this type of soap before, I’d recommend you use melt & pour glycerin soap for that project. So much simpler. But if you know what you’re doing and want to use crockpot HP soap, once it’s fully saponified you have to let it cool a bit before you add fragrance. You’ll be fine with most molds because the soap needs to end up at about 125-150 degrees, no hotter than melted chocolate or other hot candy items which those molds are likely created for. Another issue is the flash point of the fragrance or essential oils you’ll use – you want to know that. Too hot, and you’ll just burn off all the scent. Hope that helps.

      1. Jodie Avatar

        I’d never made soap before attempting this recipe and method and it’s SO easy! I have complete control over the ingredients, which is great because I can avoid everything harmful. by using only organic.

        Melt and pour soaps often still have propylene glycol, sulfates and artificial colors. All fine if you don’t mind exposing yourself to that kind of junk.

        I’d highly recommend HP soap over CP soap, no worrying about oils and lye water being around the same temperature and no long curing time 🙂

        But many people also swear by CP. It’s an individual thing I suppose. I always use HP, have never lost or ruined a batch, and now have over 6 kinds of soap I make 🙂 You could say I’m addicted, lol.

  3. Cindi Avatar

    I’ve never made soap before. I see lots of soap making recipes, but I don’t know whether they mean to use lye crystals or liquid lye. How do you know what to use? Can you use either? Does the recipe need to be adjusted in some way?

  4. Orcun Avatar

    I usually make bay leaves oil (most commonly known as “Tejpatta” in Hindi) and olive oil soap (83% olive oil and 16% bay leaves oil) and this smells very nice. What I wonder is I am planing to make this recipe which 50% olive oil and 50% coconut oil. Do you think I can get The coconut smell from this?

    1. Jodie Avatar

      I’ve made it several times and there isn’t even the slightest bit of a coconut scent but perhaps it depends on the brand of oil. I use the organic Nutiva from Costco.

  5. John Cooper Avatar
    John Cooper

    Is there an easy location, that can help us determine what are the benefits of using different oils in our soap recipe? Ex and I assume I am correct:

    Olive oil ads a moisturizing component but low in lather
    Bees Wax adds hardness to a soap

  6. Lisa Avatar

    I just tried this recipe and didn’t read the whole thing so I didn’t use a crock pot to make it. Now my soap will not harden. It’s been covered for 3 days and it’s still not completely hard. What do I do with it now? Is there a way to re-batch it?

    1. Stephanie T Avatar
      Stephanie T

      If your soap hasn’t hardened by now, it’s possible you didn’t stir it to full trace. You can still produce a cold process soap if your recipe was correct. If you followed a given recipe to the letter, then stir what you have (preferably with a stick blender or egg beater) until it looks like thick custard. At that point, you could put it into the crockpot and continue to make soap, or put it back into your mold and wait about 24 hrs. If you decide on Cold Process, you may want to incubate the container during the 24 hr wait.

  7. Matt Avatar

    I cut the recipe in half and the recipe never hit a boil. I believe that I cooked it to long because when I did get the temp up above 212 and decided to cut the heat off, the soap was too dry to put into a mold. I did additional fats and got it into a mold. Might be ok. I’m not sure what went wrong. Can you help?

  8. Kelli Reyes Avatar
    Kelli Reyes

    Thanks for these recipes! Can you tell me when/how to add zinc oxide to the soap by chance?

  9. Sylvia Avatar

    Hi, could I cut the ingredients in your recipe in half or by a 3rd, and make the soap that way? I.e. the same ratio.

  10. Johnns Avatar

    Can’t you buy something like this in bulk from Amazon that is already prepared in a block, can be melted down and poured into molds? I was thinking it was mentioned here but can’t find the link. Thank you

  11. Karen Avatar

    Thank you for your wonderful blog. A few questions first what is the best way to line the soap mold (rectangle mold) with the parchment paper? I did one big sheet last time but then had fold marks in the ends. Also, I am drying a batch right now that I made a few days ago. Will the fragrance weaken over the three weeks of drying being that it is not in an enclosed container.

    1. Wellness Mama Avatar

      You can fold the edges of the paper, similar to how you would fold paper when wrapping a gift to avoid bunched up paper at the ends. The fragrance will seem like it weakens over time because the edge that is exposed to the air will lose its scent somewhat, but much of the scent is within the soap and will be released as the soap is used.

  12. Tonya Deteresa Avatar
    Tonya Deteresa

    I made this soap and it turned out great!! It has been drying on the racks for a week. How long should I allow it to dry and how do I need to store it?

  13. Ozgur Benli Avatar
    Ozgur Benli

    Hi, this is a fantastic blog, I like and read a lot. Btw, Castille soap name is not named after France but Spain. Madrid region of Spain is called Castillia and even Spanish language which is spoken there is called Castillian.

  14. Crystal Avatar

    If I half a batch of HP soap, will the cook time be less? How much less? Thank you. I used olive, coconut, and shea by the way. Just wondering if that would make a difference as well.

  15. Crystal Avatar

    Hi Katie.
    Regarding lye. Do you know anything about this: I’ve read there are several different methods in creating sodium hydroxide. Some of which leave traces of asbestos, mercury, or aluminum in the final product. Not a lot, but still there. There is a method which is more expensive to do, but less used, that can avoid this (and I’m assuming that this is what “food grade” lye is). Again, just asking if you’ve read up on this/know about this. My concern of course is whether the final bar will be leaching these toxins if I just by the hardware store 99% lye. There are so many opinions…what is yours.

  16. Anne Avatar

    you have some of the most beautiful and fun soaps i have ever seen! I have recently been converted to the power of homemade soap, I am going to order my first shipment from bulk apothecary and i am wondering what you may think are “essential soap making materials” are? please let me know. thanks so much and once again i love your blog!

  17. Crystal Avatar

    First and foremost, Congratulations on the new baby!!! Such a BLESSING from God. Hope all is well and the whole family is adjusting! Secondly, Thank you so much for all your knowledge and letting us into your “head” with what you have found along your journey to a healthy lifestyle. I am definitely one of those moms who have been exceedingly blessed because of you and your site! Last but not least, I want to add oatmeal to this recipe but being new to soap making don’t want to just “try it” and was wondering if you could inform me of when in the process to actually add it and what type of oats would you recommend? I want to use up my stash since going grain free but don’t want to waste them! THANKS SO MUCH FOR ALL YOU DO!!

    1. Wellness Mama Avatar

      Thanks so much, and thank you for reading. You can definitely add oatmeal. I’d recommend using 1-2 tablespoons per pound of oils/fats to make sure it is a good ratio and grinding the oats into a meal/powder first so there aren’t big chunks in the soap. Typically, ingredients like this are added after the soap comes to trace and right before putting into molds, but it might be a good idea to find a recipe that includes oats to make sure the proportions are right.

  18. Cassie Avatar

    Can anyone tell me if they use this soap if they have eczema?? Does it cause any irritation.

    1. Stephanie T Avatar
      Stephanie T

      “This soap” would be a subjective and hard to answer. Properly made/cured crockpot soap with some beneficial superfatting should be helpful to those with eczema. But it’s possible if you made a mistake (newbies can and do), and the soap was lye heavy – it could create problems especially for those with irritated skin already. I am my own guinea pig, and believe all soapers should be too. Start out with small batches and try it on yourself before giving it away or using it on anyone else (i.e. children or babies).

  19. Tammy Kim Avatar
    Tammy Kim

    2 questions:
    First, when do I add coloring, like tumeric?
    Second, I notice that when I spoon my done soap into molds, I have to move really fast. Even then, sometimes, my soap comes out kind of chunky. It’s not a smooth soap, but kind of lumpy. Why is this?

    1. Stephanie T Avatar
      Stephanie T

      Add coloring at any point during the process. But it will mix much easier if you add it toward the beginning, or at trace. To make your soap more workable at the end, increase your water content about 10-20%. I spoon the hot soap into my molds quickly and then slam them several times on the floor during filling to tamp out any air pockets. That helps with the texture.

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