Basic Slow Cooker Soap Recipe

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Slowcooker Crockpot Basic Soap Recipe with coconut oil and olive oil
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I’ve been fascinated with soap making for a long time. What was once a common household skill now seems like such a complicated process that many people simply buy soap instead. Unfortunately, many conventional soaps have additives, antibacterial ingredients and artificial fragrances.

Slow Cooker Soap Tutorial

I first started using homemade soap when I realized that it was the most cost effective way to get an all-natural soap.

I buy all ingredients in bulk so for under $10 I can make 12-18 big bars of organic soap. Store-bought alternatives cost 4-5 times that amount.

A Word About Lye

Many people are afraid to try recipes that use Lye, but I’ve found that much of this fear is based on misinformation.

Yes, Lye (or Sodium Hydroxide) is extremely dangerous by itself. It can cause skin damage, blindness (with eye contact) and death (if ingested). Lye in its pure form is something that can be very harmful and extreme caution should be used when using it in any way.

Lye is created through the electrolysis of sodium chloride (salt) and it creates an extremely alkaline substance. If added to water, it becomes sodium and hydroxyl ions and creates a strong exothermic (heat creating) reaction. Flashbacks to high school chemistry anyone?

Moving on…

When Lye is used in soap making, it is what is called a reagent, meaning it is used in a chemical reaction to create other substances. In soap making, a carefully measured water/lye mixture is blended with natural oils in a process called saponification. Lye is simply an agent used to create soap from oils and water.

There is no unreacted Lye remaining in properly made soap. If you’re considering making soap, definitely use extreme caution with unreacted lye and use a soap calculator to make sure you are using the correct ratio of water/lye/oils but don’t be afraid of this age old process.

Where to Find Lye: Some hardware stores carry Lye (sodium hydroxide) though many have stopped carrying it. I wasn’t able to find it at any of our four local hardware stores so I ordered this one online. If you have a local (not big brand) hardware store they might also be able to special order it for you.

Hot Process vs. Cold Process

As the name suggests, the difference between these types of processing is if heat is used or not. With both methods, a water/lye mixture is used and oils are used. The two are mixed together in the process of saponification.

With cold processing, the water/lye mixture is mixed with the oil mixture and the resulting mixture is poured into insulated molds.

Hot processing adds an additional step of “cooking” the mixture which speeds the saponification process and makes the soap ready to use in days instead of weeks. Both methods work and I’ve done both, but the hot process method is much faster.

Choosing Ingredients for Soap Making

Crock pot soap ingredientsThe advantage to making soap at home is that you can use high-quality organic ingredients and still get organic soap for much cheaper than store bought options.

In this basic recipe, I used organic Coconut Oil and organic Olive Oil, though any natural oils can be used. Use this Soap Calculator to figure out how much Lye and water are needed for whatever type of oils you want to use.

Really- the world is your oyster when it comes to picking ingredients but some popular and favorite ingredients are:

Once you’ve picked your ingredients, head over to the calculator and find out how much water and Lye you need.

For this specific recipe, I used an equal mix of olive oil and coconut oil, but just pure coconut oil can be used (like this great recipe from Mommypotamus) or just olive oil can be used. If just olive oil is used, you’ll have a pure castile soap (named after that region in Spain) which is very moisturizing but can take longer to cure.

Cocount Oil and Olive Oil soap

Gathering Equipment

How Soap should look before Turning off slowcookerI personally keep separate equipment to use for soap making. I found all of my equipment at a thrift store and keep it in the garage with the soap making ingredients.

Every source I’ve seen says that it is fine to use regular kitchen equipment for soap making as long as you wash it carefully afterward (see my notes at the bottom of this post on that). At the end of the process, you are just dealing with soap, so it isn’t toxic, but cleanup can be messy. To simplify, I just keep separate tools for soap making.

I have:

Slowcooker Crockpot Basic Soap Recipe with coconut oil and olive oil
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4.25 from 66 votes

Slow Cooker Soap Recipe

This basic soap recipe uses coconut oil and olive oil and is made in a slow cooker. A simple and moisturizing recipe you can make at home!
Prep Time45 minutes
Active Time35 minutes
Resting Time1 day
Yield: 0
Author: Katie Wells

Materials

Instructions

  • Prepare your mold. Wood molds will need to be lined with freezer paper or wax paper. Silicone molds are ready to use as is. You can also use any box if you line it with freezer paper, wax paper, or a thick garbage bag. I’ve heard of people using empty Pringles containers, but haven’t tried it.
  • Make sure that your work area is clean, ventilated and that there are no children nearby. This is not a good recipe to let children help with since lye is caustic until mixed with water and oils.
  • Weigh out 16 ounces of olive oil and 16 ounces of melted coconut oil and pour them both into the slow cooker.
  • Turn on high just until the oils heat up and then reduce to low heat.
  • While oils are heating, carefully measure the lye and water separately. TIP: This is the only thing I ever use disposable plastic cups for. They don’t weigh anything on the scale so they make measuring easy. I keep three separate cups labeled “Water”, “Lye”, and “Oil” to use for this purpose only. I reuse them each time so they aren’t wasted and I don’t worry about anyone drinking out of them since we don’t usually use these types of cups.
  • Carefully take the cups with the measured water and lye outside or to a well ventilated area.
  • Pour the water into a quart size or larger glass jar.
  • With gloves and eye protection, slowly add the lye to the water. DO NOT ADD THE WATER TO THE LYE (this is really important).
  • Stir carefully with a metal spoon, making sure not to let the liquid come in direct contact with your body.
  • As you stir, the mixture will become white and cloudy and get really hot. Let this mixture sit for about 10 minutes to cool. It should become clear when it has cooled.
  • When the oils in the slow cooker have heated to about 120-130°F, slowly stir in the water and lye mixture.
  • Quickly rinse the container used for the water and lye mixture out in the sink. I rinse well and then re-rinse with white vinegar to make sure all the lye has been neutralized.
  • Use a stick blender to blend the mixture in the slow cooker for about 4-5 minutes or until it is opaque and starting to thicken.
  • Cover and keep the slow cooker heat on low to thicken. I set a timer for 15 minutes and check it every 15 minutes until it is ready. It will start to boil and bubble on the sides first. After about 35-55 minutes (depending on the slow cooker) it will be thick enough that the entire surface is bubbly and the sides have collapsed in.
  • Turn the heat off and remove the inner bowl of the slow cooker.
  • If you are going to use essential oils for scent, add them now. I added lavender and orange.
  • Quickly and carefully spoon the mixture into the prepared molds.
  • Cover the molds with parchment paper and set them in a cool, dry place.
  • After 24 hours, pop the soap out of the molds. It can be used right away, but I prefer to let it set for a few more days so that it lasts longer.

Notes

Clean-up Tips
As I mentioned, keeping separate tools for soap making simplifies the process since things don’t have to be cleaned enough for food use. I still clean all tools carefully with dishwashing soap and water and rinse with vinegar just to be sure.
Since we are making soap, I typically soak the crock from the slow cooker with all tools in it for 8+ hours to dissolve and use the soapy water to help clean all the tools.

Ever made soap? How did it go? Share your favorite recipe below in the comments!

This basic soap recipe uses coconut oil and olive oil and is made in a crockpot or slowcooker. A simple and moisturizing recipe you can make at home!

Sources

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Katie Wells Avatar

About Katie Wells

Katie Wells, CTNC, MCHC, Founder of Wellness Mama and Co-founder of Wellnesse, has a background in research, journalism, and nutrition. As a mom of six, she turned to research and took health into her own hands to find answers to her health problems. WellnessMama.com is the culmination of her thousands of hours of research and all posts are medically reviewed and verified by the Wellness Mama research team. Katie is also the author of the bestselling books The Wellness Mama Cookbook and The Wellness Mama 5-Step Lifestyle Detox.

Comments

323 responses to “Basic Slow Cooker Soap Recipe”

  1. Megan Avatar

    I tried this recipe and decided to add some bentonite clay to it. So that may have also confounded my results. I used a stick blender but it wasn’t charged fully so quit running after about a minute and a half. I stirred for awhile, but I now realize it wasn’t long enough for trace: the lye-oils mixture looked like thin béarnaise sauce.

    I let it cook a little in the crockpot and it looked like hardening wax but the sides didn’t fall in. I poured it into molds after adding the clay (yes, why I think adding something else when clearly things aren’t going to form will help does seem crazy now).

    It has hardened a bit, but is still goopy, and we’re going on three weeks. Am I correct in thinking that it will eventually harden? I was unsure if it would be best to

    1. wait and see. Patience is not a strong suit with me.
    2. pop it out of the molds and rebatch. My stick blender has been plugged in and charging so it won’t die this time after only a minute and a half. Unless it chooses to give up the ghost completely, but that’s a separate issue.
    3. make a new batch of the recipe with no clay and melt this clay batch down and mix it.

    When I was washing up my soap slow cooker, I didn’t think to wear gloves and my hands did get a little red and burny, so clearly the lye was still in an active state. I’d like to be able to use the clay batch as body soap but am unsure if the lye will have reacted with the oils properly since it never came to trace. Not even false trace.

    Thanks for whatever insight you might be able to provide!

  2. Donna Wasman Avatar
    Donna Wasman

    I have made soap for over 15 years. I got started using a cold process method and never have tried the hot process. It is the only kind my husband will use. I have even tried changing up the recipe and he carries on something terrible until he gets the original back again. I got the recipe from a lady that has terrible allergies and this was the only soap she could use. My husband was a mechanic back then and he was constantly washing his hands with harsh products. They were so dry they would crack open and bleed. He’s retired now but still loves the soap. As I said, it is a cold process. Mix 16oz water with 6oz lye…outside. Let cool to between 95 and 105 degrees. While that is cooling mix 16oz olive oil, 8 oz coconut oil and 17.5oz shortening. I have also added some natural color just for me. Ha! I mix the lye and the oil when they are both between 95 and 105 degrees F. Always add the lye to the oils. Add any essential oil fragrance you like at that time. I do lavender EO a lot for me….from where??? Mountain Rose Herbs of course. Anyway, I use a stick blender to mix and it comes to a trace within a minute +/-. I use a 3″ plastic water pipe lined with waxed paper as a mold. It slides right out the next day and I slice it up and let it air dry on baking racks for 3-4 weeks. Then wrap it pretty and enjoy.

  3. Cat Avatar

    What is the shelf life of the soap when I cut it into bars? Like if I make a bunch and don’t use them right away do they “expire”?

    1. Lina Avatar

      It depends on the oils you used. If you use just Coconut and Olive oil, which are pretty stable oils, it should be ok for several years. Other oils might spoil quicker, e. g. Hemp oil or Walnut oil is extremely quick to spoil and will do so in soap, too.
      If a soap goes bad, you’ll see orange spots growing on it and it will start to smell rancid. If it’s just one or two spots, cut it off and use the soap up quickly. Soap that is prone to rancidity can be frozen and keeps good that way. Still, the piece you take out of the fridge needs to get used up rather quickly.
      Rosemary oleoresin can be used to stabilise an oil that’s prone to go rancid. It can extend the shelf life of soaps quite well. I made a highly superfatted soap with Walnut oil and it was still fine almost a year later.

    2. Stephanie T Avatar
      Stephanie T

      As long as it smells good and not rancid, it’s good. The only time rancidity becomes an issue is with high superfatting or using old oils to start with. You’ll know if it goes bad, but it doesn’t happen often.

  4. Anne Hagan Avatar
    Anne Hagan

    Hi Katie, Just made “lye” soap for the first time. Hey its a snow day and nothing else to do…. I have followed the directions to a T. With the exception of turning the heat on the crockpot down to low after mixing the lye and oils. I forgot and left it on High. The result? After 10mintes super thick mashed potatoes that have been sitting out all day kind of look and thickness. I went ahead and “poured” ( more like forced) the mixture into the lined box and it is now cooling. What to do? I am considering follwoing the advice of one reader who said you could rebatch soap by putting it back in the crock and add a bit of water til it melts again… But not really sure this will actually work. Suggestions?

    1. Lina Avatar

      Relax. It will be soap. It may look a bit rustic, but otherwise be fine. You just overcooked it a little. Let it cool and if you’re feeling adventurous after unmolding do the zap test. Touch the soap with the tip of your tounge and if it tastes like soap it’s fine. If there would be still active lye you’d feel kind of a zap to your tongue tip which would mean you’ll have to wait a few days longer and try again. Rinse your mouth afterwards. But I’ll doubt you’ll taste anytging but soap. And for all who worry, I’m doing the zap test of the time and my tongue is fine.
      Rebatching soap is necessary if a soap still zaps after a week or two, then something went wrong. And rebatched soap will always look rustic and sometimes rather chunky.

  5. SuzyQ Avatar

    Has anyone ever tried putting soap into a twist-up or push-up tube like you’d use for a lotion stick? Thinking that would be a great way to make a travel soap. . .but it might stick to the sides so that it wouldn’t “advance”. . .

  6. Teri Orlando Avatar
    Teri Orlando

    PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE remember that you can only use Stainless Steel “metal” and nothing else!! (Wooden spoons, etc. are ok, but when using “metal” only SS!!! Now they have pots and spoons that are just “coated” with Stainless Steel, make sure it’s STAMPED Stainless Steel. The best thing is to go to a 2nd hand store or Goodwill/Salvation Army and get the old stuff that is stamped. If there is a scratch in your new stuff that is only coated aluminum, as soon as the lye reacts with the aluminum, the batch will be ruined. It’s not worth all the effort and the ingredients. Trust me!! (I don’t use a crock pot – I use the SS pans and do the old fashioned method.) Hope this helps!!

  7. Gwen Avatar

    I’ve finally gotten all the ingredients to make this crockpot soap but have one major question….what size crock pot did you use for your posted recipe? Can’t wait to try this and thank you for this recipe.

    1. Stephanie T Avatar
      Stephanie T

      The larger, the better in most cases. It really depends on the size batch you’re making. But the soap tends to expand (we call it volcano-ing) and can come right up out of the pot if you’re not watching it and stirring it down every 5 minutes. So make sure you have plenty of head room in the pot. For example my oils & lye take up about 1/3 of the volume, but during the cook have been known to expand to the very top.

  8. Marea Avatar

    Nobody got back to us about our questions referring to additives. We decided to take a risk by altering this recipe, using common sense to sub the goats milk cubes for water, and adding shea butter right after trace. We wanted to share that our first time making soap was a HUGE success! Our soap is on my instagram page, I wish I could show you here how perfect it came out! And so creamy and sudsy! Perfect Ph, and it looks so beautiful. We’re already using this base recipe again for a second batch! Making soap is our new addiction! Cheers to bravery in soap making!

  9. Gabriela Avatar

    Hello. Thank you so much for this post. I really look forward to make my own soap. I do not have a stick blender, so I was wondering if this is really necessary. Thanks.

    1. Wellness Mama Avatar

      It certainly helps… otherwise you will be mixing for a long time. If you plan to make a bunch of soap, you may want to get one. There are models out there that are very affordable.

  10. Jenny Avatar

    We made this soap for the first time today and I’m just concerned because we poured the mixture into the mold and it seems to be seperating. The loive oils is kindof floating to the top. While there is a firmer mixture on the bottom. It’s only been sitting for about 20 minutes. Just wanted to see if anyone has had this experience and if it will still work. Or should I put it back in the crock pot for a while. Any responses would be GREATLY appreciated! Tons of fun to make though!

    1. Stephanie T Avatar
      Stephanie T

      Sounds like you didn’t cook it long enough or mix it well enough – or both.

      The mixture should resemble a very thick pudding, and there should be no visible oil. You want to test for full saponification (turning to soap) before you pour into the mold, too.

      What I do is stir the soap several times during the cook and when it looks like it’s not separating at all anymore, I will run the spoon under cool water for a second, watch for suds, and then touch my tongue lightly to the soap on the spoon. If you feel a tingle or zap like a battery, it’s not done – there’s still free lye. Stir and cook for another 10 or 15 minutes and try again until the only result you get with the taste test is a soapy flavor.

    2. Kirsten Avatar

      yes, it sounds like it needs to cook longer. Mine usually takes about two hours in my crock pot on low. After 1 1/2 hours I usually start PH strip testing it. I don’t like the “zap test”. PH strips are super cheap on amazon, and there are like 100 in a packet. Will last you all year even if you soap twice a week! I only had one time where I had oil on top, and it was because I added super fats at the end, and added too much. Even so, after remixing it, it reabsorbed into the soap..just cured for a week or so longer than usual. That being said, it was just extra oil…and it was PH tested at 9, so I knew it was “soap”. Good luck

  11. Marea Avatar

    Thank you for posting this! After my boyfriend and I decided we were ready to make soap, I searched endlessly for a straightforward, well written recipe. That search ended here. Yours is so easy to understand. Thank you!!!! I have one question for you, hopefully you can help.
    We wanted to add shea butter and some goats milk (frozen in ice cube tray) we were wondering if we may add these together at the end of cooking when trace had formed. Would that be ok to add those two extras in at that time? Or is there a better time to add them prior to the end?
    Thanks so much for anything you might help us with. 🙂

    1. Lisa Avatar

      It makes between 12 and 13 for me Jenny, I use silicone soap mounds that make 8 x 5.5 cm bars : )

  12. Kirsten Avatar

    Hi, I made learning how to do soap my new year’s goal for this year. So far, I have been soaping for about three months. I tried cold process, as well as hot process (like this recipe), and love it! It is a perfect combination of creativity and art. With hot process it is sometimes hoarder to get patterns and colors, but i have been playing with beet powder, alkanet root powder, turmeric and other powders, mixed with a little oil or water, and mixed either into the crock pot, or part of the soap in a separate container. I always superfat! I usually add an additional 2-3 ounces of shea, cocoa butter, jojoba, olive oil and vegetable glycerin to the soap 1/2 hour before it is finished cooking, stir it in, and let it cook another wee while until it is done. Then, I let it cool a little, add my essential oils and any color, and mold it. It is easier to work with cold process soap, because it is thinner, but more difficult to wait the month or more to use it! BTW, you can buy a cheap PH test strip to make sure your soap is in the 8 PH range before you use it. Essential Depot and Brambleberry have fantastic soap making supplies. With lye, you can fine is sometimes at the hardware store, but be sure it is 100% potassium hydroxide, and does not contain any other ingredients. So happy you posted this!!! I love your recipes, and your book, and now know you are a fellow soaper!! (kind of addicting, isn’t it? I was in bed last night unable to sleep because I was thinking about making a new herbal blend for my soap!!

  13. Melissa Avatar

    There are so many comments! I hope no one asked this but I couldn’t read them all! When would you add dried herbs- like lavender? I’m assuming it would be when you add the essential oils, but I would like to be sure before I try on my own.

    1. Kirsten Avatar

      yes you can, but most dry brown, just so you know. You can also infuse your distilled water with lavender, herbs or rose petals…asgan, may turn a white soap beige. Lovely smells though! When I make lavender or “spa” soap, I top it with dried lavender or rosemary, pressing it lightly into the soap. If you do this, cut your soap upside down, s you dont drag the topping down through the entire soap. Ass when you do the essential oils.

  14. Tiffanie Avatar

    Has anyone used this recipe to do hand milled soap? We usually use triple killed soap at home and while I really like the soap it does not last long for a family of eight. I would like to try hand milling it, but wondered if anyone else has experience? Thanks.

  15. Janet Brown Avatar
    Janet Brown

    I read a lot of the comments but didn’t see this question addressed. Since olive oil doesn’t have a really long shelf life, does that affect the life of the soap? I like to leave soaps to air/shelf dry for a long time and wouldn’t want to risk having the olive oil go bad (rancid). I’m wondering if the cooking and rendering clear up that problem.

    1. Stephanie T Avatar
      Stephanie T

      Olive oil, when it’s fresh and then properly saponified, as a soap will last for years. Remember that there is little to no oil left in properly made and cured soap. It becomes a substance called sodium olivate – and it lasts a long time and gets rock hard and super-mild.

  16. Carly Roman Avatar
    Carly Roman

    I just used a regular blender with 1 attachment and my soap came out great! 🙂

  17. mary Avatar

    p.s. I measured all by weighing carefully. I cooked it for over 4 hours… must sleep, so added more water and put on “warm” instead of low. (When I did this saw some beautiful soap bubbles! But still zapped). What could I have done wrong??! Thanks for your help!

    1. Stephanie T Avatar
      Stephanie T

      I know this is a couple months too late, but maybe someone else can also benefit.

      There was something off about your measurements apparently. What you had was lye-heavy soap. Just adding water won’t help, as you likely found out. The only possible fix would have been adding more of your oils in small amounts at a time (like 1 ounce), stirring well, cooking longer and testing til “no zap”. You can definitely save crockpot soap that way. You would also want to add a bit more water as time goes on, if it takes a while to reach full saponification of the oils with no left over lye. When the soap gets hard to stir and takes on a waxy appearance, that’s your clue to add another ounce of water.

      What type of scale were you using? Soapmaking is just like baking. If you do not have very accurate measuring methods, the final result will be off. Hopefully you have since tried it again and been successful! I LOVE making soap and won’t use anything but my own as I have since 1999.

4.25 from 66 votes (48 ratings without comment)

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