Basic Slow Cooker Soap Recipe

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Slowcooker Crockpot Basic Soap Recipe with coconut oil and olive oil
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I’ve been fascinated with soap making for a long time. What was once a common household skill now seems like such a complicated process that many people simply buy soap instead. Unfortunately, many conventional soaps have additives, antibacterial ingredients and artificial fragrances.

Slow Cooker Soap Tutorial

I first started using homemade soap when I realized that it was the most cost effective way to get an all-natural soap.

I buy all ingredients in bulk so for under $10 I can make 12-18 big bars of organic soap. Store-bought alternatives cost 4-5 times that amount.

A Word About Lye

Many people are afraid to try recipes that use Lye, but I’ve found that much of this fear is based on misinformation.

Yes, Lye (or Sodium Hydroxide) is extremely dangerous by itself. It can cause skin damage, blindness (with eye contact) and death (if ingested). Lye in its pure form is something that can be very harmful and extreme caution should be used when using it in any way.

Lye is created through the electrolysis of sodium chloride (salt) and it creates an extremely alkaline substance. If added to water, it becomes sodium and hydroxyl ions and creates a strong exothermic (heat creating) reaction. Flashbacks to high school chemistry anyone?

Moving on…

When Lye is used in soap making, it is what is called a reagent, meaning it is used in a chemical reaction to create other substances. In soap making, a carefully measured water/lye mixture is blended with natural oils in a process called saponification. Lye is simply an agent used to create soap from oils and water.

There is no unreacted Lye remaining in properly made soap. If you’re considering making soap, definitely use extreme caution with unreacted lye and use a soap calculator to make sure you are using the correct ratio of water/lye/oils but don’t be afraid of this age old process.

Where to Find Lye: Some hardware stores carry Lye (sodium hydroxide) though many have stopped carrying it. I wasn’t able to find it at any of our four local hardware stores so I ordered this one online. If you have a local (not big brand) hardware store they might also be able to special order it for you.

Hot Process vs. Cold Process

As the name suggests, the difference between these types of processing is if heat is used or not. With both methods, a water/lye mixture is used and oils are used. The two are mixed together in the process of saponification.

With cold processing, the water/lye mixture is mixed with the oil mixture and the resulting mixture is poured into insulated molds.

Hot processing adds an additional step of “cooking” the mixture which speeds the saponification process and makes the soap ready to use in days instead of weeks. Both methods work and I’ve done both, but the hot process method is much faster.

Choosing Ingredients for Soap Making

Crock pot soap ingredientsThe advantage to making soap at home is that you can use high-quality organic ingredients and still get organic soap for much cheaper than store bought options.

In this basic recipe, I used organic Coconut Oil and organic Olive Oil, though any natural oils can be used. Use this Soap Calculator to figure out how much Lye and water are needed for whatever type of oils you want to use.

Really- the world is your oyster when it comes to picking ingredients but some popular and favorite ingredients are:

Once you’ve picked your ingredients, head over to the calculator and find out how much water and Lye you need.

For this specific recipe, I used an equal mix of olive oil and coconut oil, but just pure coconut oil can be used (like this great recipe from Mommypotamus) or just olive oil can be used. If just olive oil is used, you’ll have a pure castile soap (named after that region in Spain) which is very moisturizing but can take longer to cure.

Cocount Oil and Olive Oil soap

Gathering Equipment

How Soap should look before Turning off slowcookerI personally keep separate equipment to use for soap making. I found all of my equipment at a thrift store and keep it in the garage with the soap making ingredients.

Every source I’ve seen says that it is fine to use regular kitchen equipment for soap making as long as you wash it carefully afterward (see my notes at the bottom of this post on that). At the end of the process, you are just dealing with soap, so it isn’t toxic, but cleanup can be messy. To simplify, I just keep separate tools for soap making.

I have:

Slowcooker Crockpot Basic Soap Recipe with coconut oil and olive oil
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4.25 from 66 votes

Slow Cooker Soap Recipe

This basic soap recipe uses coconut oil and olive oil and is made in a slow cooker. A simple and moisturizing recipe you can make at home!
Prep Time45 minutes
Active Time35 minutes
Resting Time1 day
Yield: 0
Author: Katie Wells

Materials

Instructions

  • Prepare your mold. Wood molds will need to be lined with freezer paper or wax paper. Silicone molds are ready to use as is. You can also use any box if you line it with freezer paper, wax paper, or a thick garbage bag. I’ve heard of people using empty Pringles containers, but haven’t tried it.
  • Make sure that your work area is clean, ventilated and that there are no children nearby. This is not a good recipe to let children help with since lye is caustic until mixed with water and oils.
  • Weigh out 16 ounces of olive oil and 16 ounces of melted coconut oil and pour them both into the slow cooker.
  • Turn on high just until the oils heat up and then reduce to low heat.
  • While oils are heating, carefully measure the lye and water separately. TIP: This is the only thing I ever use disposable plastic cups for. They don’t weigh anything on the scale so they make measuring easy. I keep three separate cups labeled “Water”, “Lye”, and “Oil” to use for this purpose only. I reuse them each time so they aren’t wasted and I don’t worry about anyone drinking out of them since we don’t usually use these types of cups.
  • Carefully take the cups with the measured water and lye outside or to a well ventilated area.
  • Pour the water into a quart size or larger glass jar.
  • With gloves and eye protection, slowly add the lye to the water. DO NOT ADD THE WATER TO THE LYE (this is really important).
  • Stir carefully with a metal spoon, making sure not to let the liquid come in direct contact with your body.
  • As you stir, the mixture will become white and cloudy and get really hot. Let this mixture sit for about 10 minutes to cool. It should become clear when it has cooled.
  • When the oils in the slow cooker have heated to about 120-130°F, slowly stir in the water and lye mixture.
  • Quickly rinse the container used for the water and lye mixture out in the sink. I rinse well and then re-rinse with white vinegar to make sure all the lye has been neutralized.
  • Use a stick blender to blend the mixture in the slow cooker for about 4-5 minutes or until it is opaque and starting to thicken.
  • Cover and keep the slow cooker heat on low to thicken. I set a timer for 15 minutes and check it every 15 minutes until it is ready. It will start to boil and bubble on the sides first. After about 35-55 minutes (depending on the slow cooker) it will be thick enough that the entire surface is bubbly and the sides have collapsed in.
  • Turn the heat off and remove the inner bowl of the slow cooker.
  • If you are going to use essential oils for scent, add them now. I added lavender and orange.
  • Quickly and carefully spoon the mixture into the prepared molds.
  • Cover the molds with parchment paper and set them in a cool, dry place.
  • After 24 hours, pop the soap out of the molds. It can be used right away, but I prefer to let it set for a few more days so that it lasts longer.

Notes

Clean-up Tips
As I mentioned, keeping separate tools for soap making simplifies the process since things don’t have to be cleaned enough for food use. I still clean all tools carefully with dishwashing soap and water and rinse with vinegar just to be sure.
Since we are making soap, I typically soak the crock from the slow cooker with all tools in it for 8+ hours to dissolve and use the soapy water to help clean all the tools.

Ever made soap? How did it go? Share your favorite recipe below in the comments!

This basic soap recipe uses coconut oil and olive oil and is made in a crockpot or slowcooker. A simple and moisturizing recipe you can make at home!

Sources

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Katie Wells Avatar

About Katie Wells

Katie Wells, CTNC, MCHC, Founder of Wellness Mama and Co-founder of Wellnesse, has a background in research, journalism, and nutrition. As a mom of six, she turned to research and took health into her own hands to find answers to her health problems. WellnessMama.com is the culmination of her thousands of hours of research and all posts are medically reviewed and verified by the Wellness Mama research team. Katie is also the author of the bestselling books The Wellness Mama Cookbook and The Wellness Mama 5-Step Lifestyle Detox.

Comments

323 responses to “Basic Slow Cooker Soap Recipe”

  1. mary Avatar

    Hi there! I am new, and just made this recipe in crock pot….measured very carefully…and the mixture still zaps (even with LOTS of extra cook time). I added hot water, continued to stir and cook…monitoring carefully. Still zaps. What can I do? can you help me save it??!!??! I hope so!

  2. tammy Avatar

    I have a question. I live in Jakarta and I cannot find Lye. My friend uses caustic soap?? which she gets from someone and says it works ok. However, I did find a liquid, alkaline Lye in Singapore at an organic food shop, (that is what the bottle says). Will that work? or does it need to be a powder? I cannot transport Lye on an International flight. Please help, thank you!

  3. Ambre Avatar

    Is It really necessary to use a stick blender? I do not have one, and was just wondering if I could just stir it real well.

    1. Stephanie T Avatar
      Stephanie T

      Yes. That’s how soap was made before kitchen electronics were invented =) It will take much longer depending on what oils you use (for example a high-olive oil formula takes the longest. Using Palm oil will shorten the time to trace, etc.) You can stir for a while, leave it sit for a few minutes and then come back and stir more. Repeat until the soap is traced.

  4. laurie Avatar

    Brambleberry is an indepth website with alot of information, body product tutorials and business musings . So much fun. AnneMarie sells a ton of stuff for soap and lotion makers. The entire soaping community has been leaning toward more natural fragrances and coloring of soaps, even though the more brilliantly swirled soaps are really fun and attractive. Katie, I think you should do more tutorials on youtube !
    Laur

  5. Jennifer Avatar
    Jennifer

    This is my first time ever making soap and i absolutely love it!! I can go on and on about it, but I am actually here for a quick question. I have tried to take these soap bars and use in various other recipes, using this soap as the “bar castile soap” in said recipes (examples, grating for body wash and laundry detergent). The recipes are calling for pure castile soap, which, from my understanding, is this soap, yet when used, the recipe is not congealing as it should. Please help?

    1. Emily Wells Avatar
      Emily Wells

      Castile soap is made with 100% olive oil. There’s no coconut oil or other oils in it.

    2. Lynn Avatar

      I’m new to soap making as well but I do believe a pure, castile soap is ALL olive oil 🙂

    3. Lina Avatar

      The others are correct. Castil(l)e soap is made from 100% Olive Oil. And for laundry detergent there should be no superfatting as the laundry won’t profit by free oil in the soap, but your skin does.
      You can make 100% Olive oil soap the same way as the recipe here to get Castil(l)e soap for laundry detergent. It might take longer to reach trace and cooking time will vary, too, but it works. True Casti(l)le soap will need a longer drying time though to get hard, so don’t worry if it doesn’t get very hard soon. It might be easier to grate while it’s softer, though.
      For a body wash you’ll need superfatting, though.
      You can use a lye calculator for preparing the correct recipe, there are quite a few out there, e. g. http://soapcalc.net/calc/soapcalcwp.asp or https://www.thesage.com/calcs/LyeCalc.html
      The latter is a bit easier to work with as a beginner in my opinion.

  6. Tay Avatar

    I have found this website called: https://www.brambleberry.com/shop-by-product/ingredients/bases/liquid-soap/natural-castile-liquid-soap-base/V000450.html

    Is this recipe similar to the soap found on that link? It seems like the base sold there is pretty cheap and with a 2lb base you can dilute it to 8lbs. Will making soap from your recipe be cheaper than soaps founds on this website and if so by how much (approximation is fine)? I’m just decide if I should make my own or buy a base and mix in my fragrances.

    I’m a guy and I never thought I’ll be making my own soap but this looks fun!

    1. Lina Avatar

      That question doesn’t have a ready answer.
      First, the soap base you mention is a liquid soap base while this recipe here gives a hard soap bar. And your price for making the soap depends on what you put into it. You can get very cheap oils and make your soap that way or you’ll go all out and use only ecologically produces oils or, or, or.
      You will have to add up the prices for your ingredients and how much soap you can make from them and then compare it with the soap base prices (don’t forget to include postage when buying online).
      I suspect the prices won’t differ by much, so it’s more a question of wanting to do it yourself or not.

      1. Dozer Avatar

        Well, let me clarify. I definitely want to try this out with my daughter so we can make our custom soaps with the scents we like using essential oils. But when I asked if one was cheaper than the other I was referring to the base. Whether it’s a liquid or a solid recipe, is it significantly cheaper or better quality (I’m not sure if brambleberry keeps all of the glycerin or other goodies in their formula or strips it out) to make on your own or order from an online company and mix in your scents? If the price difference is only minimal, let’s say a 10% difference and the quality is comparable then I rather not go through the trouble with the crockpot and lye or have to wait for it to cook.

  7. Beverly Koski Avatar
    Beverly Koski

    Hi! I just made my first batch of soap ever! It was mommypotamus’s coconut oil soap. But now I’m wondering…I have a 2 year old and a 6 month old…is the coconut oil soap gentle enough for babies? WellnessMama, what homemade soap do you use on your little ones? Is this coconut oil and olive oil recipe gentle enough? Thank you!

  8. danielle Avatar
    danielle

    How many bars of soap does this make approx? Also, how many drops of essential oils do you add?

    1. Lynn Avatar

      Hi Danielle. I’ve made this soap twice, the first time using a 1 litre soy milk container and small glass pan for molds. I ended up with 5 large bars and many smaller ones that are great for hand washing. The second time I made this soap, I weighed my finished bars (13 decent size) and it was approximately 1200 grams. So it depends on what kind of mold you use and how thick you cut the soap. The soy milk container was actually perfect! No need for parchment paper and no problem at all removing the soap 🙂

  9. Carly Avatar

    Hi! I’m so excited to make this recipe. I purchased everything I needed today, except I just realized I forgot Parchment paper. Can I spray the molds with something or should I make a run out?

    1. laurie Avatar

      You have to use parchment paper ,or a silicone mold. If you spray with another ‘oil’ your lye will react with that also, and your soap will be really stuck to the sides of this mold. Does that make sense? I have used washed and dried pringle cans without a liner, but had to peel the paper off the soap, like crescent rolls. lol.

  10. Lynn Avatar

    I noticed you say only ‘water’ and not distilled or spring. Although I’m very new to soap making, I thought tap water was unacceptable due to impurities it may have reacting with the lye?

    1. Kirsten Avatar

      true! You should use distilled water, because there are many other nasties in the water that we use at home, that can interfere with the soap content.

  11. Joni Avatar

    I made soap recently that I used the CP method. I made Coconut Oil and Extra Virgin Olive Oil soap as your website provides the recipe for. When I did the water (prior to mixing with lye), I brewed nettles in it first and then removed the tea leaves. I put a lot more tea leaves as it brewed, by accident. But all were removed when using it with the lye. I also added walnut shell powder when it came to trace. Then I stirred in peppermint oil (approx .25 ounces) before the trace was too thick. When my soap cooled it had some holes in it, and it’s greasy – seems like it’s leaking oils. I know your process is not Cold Process, but do you have any thoughts on where I went wrong? I love your recipe exactly as you have described it, but I just had to experiment, and now have questions 🙂
    Thank you so much for your time!!

  12. Lynn Avatar

    What is this 76 degrees I see every now and then in regards to coconut oil?

  13. Kylie Avatar

    I made this soap the other day and it beautiful, its the second batch of soap I have ever made. I recommend this recipe. Your such a clever lady! Thankyou for sharing.

  14. Lina Avatar

    Remelting soap is possible, but takes quite a few hours. And if your soap looks good as it is, I wouldn’t bother about it. After a drying time of about four weeks you can wrap your soap into cellophane (theres a sort that lets the soap breathe or you poke some holes into it with a needle, it shouldn’t be completely airtight). If you pack a bit of tissue wetted with tea tree oil into it as well, the soap will take on the scent. Just refresh the tissue now and then and the soap should smell good soon.

  15. Jill Avatar

    So I made the soap and it formed well! Unfortunately I thought that approx 15 drops of tea tree oil would be enough to get a good scent and I was sadly mistaken! Is there any way to add essential oil after the soap is made? I don’t suppose I could re- melt it??

    1. Kirsten Avatar

      you can “re batch” the soap. If it is within a week or so of making it, simply cut up the soap in to chunks. Make another (maybe a double batch) of soap, maybe a different color ? and add chunks into the pot at the very end. Stir to coat, and pour into your molds. I did one that was a lavender, which was pale grey, and chunked it into a white bar…you can add extra essential or scent oils and it really looks pretty when cut. Sometimes on lavender soap I sprinkle dried lavender on top too!

  16. Sue Reynolds Avatar
    Sue Reynolds

    I have read this recipe and want to get ready to “FINALLY” make our soap. Last frontier for me to battle. My question is with Coconut oil. Do you melt it to a liquid form to measure it? Why? Why can’t it stay in a solid form? I see all other butters can be used and I am confused here. Thank You for this and taking time to share with us. I so appreciate all of your work and share with family and friends too!

    1. Emily Wells Avatar
      Emily Wells

      I weigh mine while it’s solid and then melt it in the crockpot and add the olive oil later. I’ve never had a problem doing it that way.

  17. Christen Avatar
    Christen

    Hi Katie, I love your postings! Can I use a rice cooker inatead?

  18. Tammy Avatar

    can i use a plastic stick blender instead of a metal one? Thanks!

    1. Emily Wells Avatar
      Emily Wells

      I use a plastic one. Found an el cheapo one on amazon for $15 and it’s great!

  19. Laurie Avatar

    Oh, and I use additives ; oats , clays, ground seeds/ seaweed, sodium lactate, liquid silk, natural colorants during the applesauce stage, somewhere mid cook…
    sodium lactate , or non-iodized finely ground salt mixed with a few table spoons of your recipe water can be added for hardness, easier release from molds, and believe it or not, skin conditioning… start with a tablespoon of salt and 3 tablespoons of warm water . strain or not…( the few grains of salt left add a touch of exfoliation ) Add right after lye water has been mixed in.

  20. Laurie Avatar

    5 stars
    hello everybody
    Use your crock for whatever you want to, as long as it is the removable crockery type You need to immerse it in hot water to remove soap and very rarely , lye splashes… If you pour your lye slowly down the metal barrel of your stick blender, it will not splash. ALWAYS USE GOGGLES AND GLOVES… wipe down the rest of it with your cleaning stuff at least 2ce. I’ve been using mine for several years for food and soap.
    the only thing that may be hard to remove are some scents, especially if there has been some glazing ( teeny cracks in the glassy finish of your crockery.) I have a very large crock pot that I use only for colored soaps. I love cold process for the fluidity and ability to play longer with the batter, but hot process keeps scent longer ( because I do not add it until the very end)
    laurie

4.25 from 66 votes (48 ratings without comment)

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