Basic Slow Cooker Soap Recipe

Slowcooker Crockpot Basic Soap Recipe with coconut oil and olive oil

I’ve been fascinated with soap making for a long time. What was once a common household skill now seems like such a complicated process that many people simply buy soap instead. Unfortunately, many conventional soaps have additives, antibacterial ingredients and artificial fragrances.

I first started using homemade soap when I realized that it was the most cost effective way to get an all-natural soap.

I buy all ingredients in bulk so for under $10 I can make 12-18 big bars of organic soap. Store-bought alternatives cost 4-5 times that amount.

A Word About Lye

Many people are afraid to try recipes that use Lye, but I’ve found that much of this fear is based on misinformation.

Yes, Lye (or Sodium Hydroxide) is extremely dangerous by itself. It can cause skin damage, blindness (with eye contact) and death (if ingested). Lye in its pure form is something that can be very harmful and extreme caution should be used when using it in any way.

Lye is created through the electrolysis of sodium chloride (salt) and it creates an extremely alkaline substance. If added to water, it becomes sodium and hydroxyl ions and creates a strong exothermic (heat creating) reaction. Flashbacks to high school chemistry anyone?

Moving on…

When Lye is used in soap making, it is what is called a reagent, meaning it is used in a chemical reaction to create other substances. In soap making, a carefully measured water/lye mixture is blended with natural oils in a process called saponification. Lye is simply an agent used to create soap from oils and water.

There is no unreacted Lye remaining in properly made soap. If you’re considering making soap, definitely use extreme caution with unreacted lye and use a soap calculator to make sure you are using the correct ratio of water/lye/oils but don’t be afraid of this age old process.

Where to Find Lye: Some hardware stores carry Lye (sodium hydroxide) though many have stopped carrying it. I wasn’t able to find it at any of our four local hardware stores so I ordered this one online. If you have a local (not big brand) hardware store they might also be able to special order it for you.

Hot Process vs. Cold Process

As the name suggests, the difference between these types of processing is if heat is used or not. With both methods, a water/lye mixture is used and oils are used. The two are mixed together in the process of saponification.

With cold processing, the water/lye mixture is mixed with the oil mixture and the resulting mixture is poured into insulated molds.

Hot processing adds an additional step of “cooking” the mixture which speeds the saponification process and makes the soap ready to use in days instead of weeks. Both methods work and I’ve done both, but the hot process method is much faster.

Choosing Ingredients for Soap Making

Crock pot soap ingredientsThe advantage to making soap at home is that you can use high-quality organic ingredients and still get organic soap for much cheaper than store bought options.

In this basic recipe, I used organic Coconut Oil and organic Olive Oil, though any natural oils can be used. Use this Soap Calculator to figure out how much Lye and water are needed for whatever type of oils you want to use.

Really- the world is your oyster when it comes to picking ingredients but some popular and favorite ingredients are (get them all in bulk here):

Once you’ve picked your ingredients, head over to the calculator and find out how much water and Lye you need.

For this specific recipe, I used an equal mix of olive oil and coconut oil, but just pure coconut oil can be used (like this great recipe from Mommypotamus) or just olive oil can be used. If just olive oil is used, you’ll have a pure Castille soap (named after that region in Spain) which is very moisturizing but can take longer to cure.

Cocount Oil and Olive Oil soap

Gathering Equipment

How Soap should look before Turning off slowcookerI personally keep separate equipment to use for soap making. I found all of my equipment at a thrift store and keep it in the garage with the soap making ingredients.

Every source I’ve seen says that it is fine to use regular kitchen equipment for soap making as long as you wash it carefully afterward (see my notes at the bottom of this post on that). At the end of the process, you are just dealing with soap, so it isn’t toxic, but cleanup can be messy. To simplify, I just keep separate tools for soap making.

I have:

Soap Recipe Ingredients

  • 1 pound (16 ounces or 453.6 grams) coconut oil
  • 1 pound (16 ounces or 453.6 grams) olive oil
  • 0.303 pounds Lye (4.844 ounces or 137.339 grams)
  • 0.760 pounds water ( 12.16 ounces or 344.73 grams)
  • Up to 1 ounce of essential oils of choice (optional)

Soap Recipe Instructions

  1. Make sure that your work area is clean, ventilated and that there are no children nearby. This is not a good recipe to let children help with since Lye is caustic until mixed with water and oils.
  2. Measure the oils in liquid form (by weight) and pour into the slow cooker. Turn on high just until oils heat up and then reduce to low heat.
  3. While oils are heating, carefully measure the lye and water separately. TIP: This is the only thing I ever use disposable plastic cups for. They don’t weigh anything on the scale so they make measuring easy and I keep three separate cups labeled:
  4. Water, Lye and Oil to use for this purpose only. I reuse them each time so they aren’t wasted and I don’t worry about anyone drinking out of them since we don’t usually use these types of cups.
  5. Carefully take the cups with the water and the lye outside or to a well ventilated area. Pour the water into a quart size or larger glass jar. With gloves and eye protection, slowly add the lye to the water. DO NOT ADD THE WATER TO THE LYE (this is really important). Stir carefully with a metal spoon, making sure not to let the liquid come in contact with your body directly.
  6. As you stir, this will create a cloudy white mixture that gets really hot. Let this mixture set for about 10 minutes to cool. It should become clear and not cloudy when it has cooled.
  7. When the oils in the crockpot have heated (to about 120-130 degrees F), slowly pour in the water and lye mixture and stir.
  8. Quickly rinse the container used for the water and lye mixture out in the sink. I rinse well and then re-rinse with white vinegar to make sure all Lye has been neutralized.
  9. Use the metal or wooden spoon to stir the lye/water mixture into the oil mixture in the crockpot. Once it is evenly mixed, use the stick blender to blend for about 4-5 minutes or until it is opaque and starting to thicken.
  10. Cover and keep on low heat to thicken. I set a timer for 15 minutes and check it every 15 minutes until it is ready. It will start to boil and bubble on the sides first. After about 35-55 minutes (depending on crock pot) it will thicken enough that the entire surface is bubbly and the sides have collapsed in.
  11. At this point, turn the heat off and remove the crock. If you are going to use essential oils for scent, add them now. I added lavender and orange.
  12. Quickly and carefully spoon into molds. I’ve often heard of people using empty Pringles containers but haven’t tried it. I have used empty boxes lined with parchment paper.
  13. Cover the molds with parchment paper and set in a cool, dry place.
  14. After 24 hours, pop the soap out of the molds. It can be used right away, but I prefer to let it set for a few more days so that it lasts longer.

Clean-up Tips

As I mentioned, keeping separate tools for soap making simplifies the process since things don’t have to be cleaned enough for food use. I still clean all tools carefully with dishwashing soap and water and rinse with vinegar just to be sure.

Since we are making soap, I typically soak the crock from the slow cooker with all tools in it for 8+ hours to dissolve and use the soapy water to help clean all the tools.

Ever made soap? How did it go? Share your favorite recipe below in the comments!

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Reader Comments

  1. Will this soap disinfect germs on your hands? I know they say to wash you hands with soap and water to stop cold viruses or germs from spreading in your home but this is just oil so will it work? Thanks!

    • Studies show that regular ol soap and water does clean as well as ones with added (usually toxic) antimicrobials. Google it. The key point being that you actually have to wash your hands for a full minute, not just put soap on then rinse. If you wanted to make a more antibacterial soap you could use some essential oils which would add an extra bonus of a pleasant scent.

      • As a nurse, we learn that the friction, when washing your hands, is most important & cleaning under your fingernails each time you “scrub” your hands (to ensure you’re not harboring any germs or bacteria that can cause some pretty nasty health issues, such as EColi).

        My mom & I have been making our own soap & laundry soap for years. Love it! Don’t use anything else.

      • I work in the medical field and have never heard to wash for 1 minute (unless prepping for surgery). 30-40 seconds is plenty long enough to wash your hands.

        • I work in the food industry and was taught to wash hands for at least 20 seconds. Also, because soap is slithered, it does a great job getting rid of germs, etc. Overuse of antibacterial soap creates super germs.

    • Yep, handmade soap is meant to cleanse, cleanse away dirt.

    • All soap is “antibacterial” if you scrub your hands properly. Sing “Happy Birthday” twice while you’re washing.

      And this soap recipe is awesome. I used slightly more coconut oil and olive oil to “superfat” my soap, which makes it nice and moisturizing.

      • I’m new to this! My daughter and I are looking into making soap for teacher gifts this Christmas. How much more Olive Oil and Coconut Oil did you use?

        • Thanks for the question. Also interested in answer.

          • How much essential oil do you use for this recipie? Do you really use 1 whole ounce that seems like a lot.

  2. Katie, first of all thank you for making this so approachable. Second, if pouring into a large mold, when is it appropriate to cut the bars apart?

      • Question- can I add a tint to this recipe? And when would be a good time to add it? With the scent? Or earlier?

        • I’ve been making soap for just over a year. If I want to add tint, I get natural powders that give colour. Add the powders to the oils and blend in very well. Then add the lye and follow the remainder of the recipe.

        • When I am making hot process soap, and I’d like more than one color, I do it after the soap is cooked. Otherwise, you cannot swirl, or add multiple colors. I use natural colorants also, and since you can superfat at the end, you can mix them in a little bit of olive oil before mixing them into the finished soap.

          You can separate HP soap into different containers, or do a HP in the crock swirl.

      • Hey Katie,

        Thanks for the great soap recipe! I tried this out a few days ago, and by the time i got it into the molds it was like crumbly wax. Do you think i cooked it too long or do you know what may have happened? I was thinking of just melting it down to make liquid soap, but not sure the soap turned out right or if it would be safe to use.

  3. I have been wanting to make my own soap for a long time. My worry is that I’m such a klutz and I’m afraid I’d spill the lye on myself or get hurt with it. I know it’s safe once it’s made, it’s the interim I’m concerned with. Any other recipes that are safer when it comes to the raw product?

    • Most soap recipes use Lye in some form. Could you have someone help with the lye mixing part if you are worried about it?

    • You can’t make handmade soap without lye, unfortunately. It has to undergo saponification, from the lye with oils in order to have an end result of soap. You can do melt and pour which already has lye mixed into it but most melt and pours are still chemically laden and this takes away from it being handmade. Soaping is not recommended when pregnant.

      • I am pregnant with my 8th baby and I make lots of soap. Many do while pregnant. I’ve made soap during several pregnancies and even taught soap making workshops the last 2 times I was pregnant.

        You just need to be aware of the fumes from the lye (I will mix outside and be careful to not breathe in fumes, or have dh mix it for me) as well as the effects of any essential oils used for scenting that may be contraindicated while pregnant.

    • This is what finally got me comfortable in using *LYE*. it works like a charm, as it is where it was meant to be used, next to soap making anyway 😉 Basically, i like to cold soap with goats milk (which reduces the fumes!) so, i put a glass bowl IN the sink (this way, IF lye should spill out, its in THE BEST possible place, instead of my counter or floor right? YES!) with ice and a little water. Then I sit my smaller glass bowl in the ice water. I add my pre-measured goats milk frozen bars and pre-measured lye, spoonful by ever so slow spoonfull, sirring a LOT in between adding each spoonful (because i want to make sure the lye is dissolved as much as possible before adding more or it could make lye chunks that dont want to dissolve very easy). I Sit my cup of lye granules, beads or flakes right in the sink next to the bowls so if i bump it or something happens, i can push it down the disposal and rinse it away, slowly of course so it doesn’t erupt like a volcano. Then while the lye mix is dissolving i get my oils together and melted and to the temperature im looking for then sit it on the counter next to the sink where the lye is. My stick blender is plugged in ready and i slowly pour the lye mix into the oils and slowly carefully on low blend in the lye mix! never pull the stick blender out while its running! Once it comes to trace you can add your colors or scents and spoon it into your molds! My basic point here is to keep your lye solution in the sink while mixing it up. Dont stand directly over it while mixing because the ammonia type smell of the fumes will not smell nice but not harmful either really. just dont stand directly over it.

    • As a long-time soapmaker, I would like to share that everyone making soap with lye (whether hot or cold process) I recommend you wear long sleeves, eye protection and gloves (as she described above) while making soap. Also, lots and LOTS of ventilation when you’re mixing the lye water. The fumes will dissipate in a few minutes, but are highly irritating at first.

      If you are very cautious, move slowly, and remember the #1 Rule (Add the Lye to the Water, not Water to the Lye!) you will be fine. Done properly it’s no more dangerous than cooking with boiling water. And diligent cleanup is a must. Lye crystals can *jump* and scatter due to static – especially in the winter and when pouring them out of the typical plastic jar. Just dampen a dishcloth with cool water and a splash of vinegar and wipe down your work surfaces.

      • I Have been making crockpot soap for over 20 years … the beauty of this method is that you can use it immediately rather than having to wait the 6-8 weeks cold process soap takes. Of course the longer crockpot soap cures, the harder the bar! I am allergic to all commercial bath & body products … that is until I became a Young Living Member … their bar soaps are just like one of my favorite soap recipes and their body wash, shampoo, foaming soap & facial cleansers contain no harsh chemicals especially parabens which destroy my skin.

    • melt n pour glycerin , you can get it at any craft store. Super easy fun way to “make” your own soap.

      • Can you explain more? No lye?

    • Using ice cold water to dissolve the lye might be a good idea.

  4. I’ve never made homemade soap before. I’ve always wanted to since I have very sensitive skin and have to watch the types of soaps I use. The lye has always made me second guess making it myself. This recipe sounds really simple and I would like to try it though. I’m pregnant now, so just to be on the safe side I’ll wait until after this baby’s born. 🙂 I’ve pinned the recipe for later reference. Thanks for sharing. 🙂

  5. Lately, I’ve been feeling like soap is too harsh for my skin because of the lye and I’ve stopped using soap at all when I shower. However, I miss the suds and the smell. Do you think there is any harm to your skin by using soap?

      • What do you think of probiotic soap and the effect of regular soap on your skins bacterial colonies?

        • Soap works on germs/viruses by making them slippery and easy to rinse away. So adding probiotics doesn’t really make sense–you’ll rinse them away, too. But maybe you could put probiotics in hand lotion? If you kept it refrigerated?

        • Soap works on germs/viruses by making them slippery and easy to rinse away. So adding probiotics doesn’t really make sense–you’ll rinse them away, too. But maybe you could put probiotics in hand lotion? If you kept it refrigerated?

    • Maybe you need a higher superfatted soap. This way it helps create a milder soap. Also, are you using handmade soap or store brought soap. If using handmade soap, you also want to make sure the soap has been fully cured since cured soap produces a milder soap.

    • If the soap is made correctly there should not be any lye left in the finished soap to cause dryness or irritation. Homemade “lye” soap (as some call it) is known for being gentle. Super fatting leaves excess oils that help to moisturize and homemade soap retains all it’s natural glycerine (which is removed from most conventional soap or detergent bars) that is good for the skin as well.
      The types of oils used in the soap can have a different impact on your skin. (hi coconut oil, more than 30%, can be drying… But a higher super fat, higher than normally recommended, can help to combat that) People with sensitive skin tend to prefer high percentage of olive oil, as well as soaps made with things like goats milk.

      • I made this soap adapting my Uncles old recipe using rendered bacon oil (we raise pigs) and have never found it drying. What is “super fatting”?

    • Buy pH paper and press it against soap surface. If pH paper turned blue from original yellow colour then you have added lye more. If it is dark red it is too acidic. pH is used to monitor saponification. Very high pH would burn or irritate your skin. Dove soap has acidic pH.

  6. Thank you Katie ! i lovelovelove to make soap !!! It’s totally addictive once you get started.
    1 of my favorites is fresh ginger , orange and frankincence…allof them healing in their own right. I love the hot process because the scent sticks MUCH longer when you add it at the very end. and there are so many natural colorants…indigo, activated charcoal, woad, rose, green and blue clays…ogosh, lovely,
    laur

  7. I love that you take the extra step to put them in cute little molds. It makes it fun!

  8. I make handcrafted skincare products including soap. I will also add to be sure you use protective equipment. Safety first! Don’t be afraid of the lye, just respect it., Also, always add lye to your liquid. NEVER add water to lye or you wiil see a big volcanic explosion!

  9. I make soap all the time, everyday!! You can use almost any oils, but some work better than others. Olive oil and coconut oil are staples in most recipes. Lame, store bought “soap” really can’t compare to the real thing. The store-bought version has all the natural glycerin removed! Your skin will feel amazing and you will almost never need to use lotion if you regularly use good handmade soap! I make and sell all natural handmade soaps!

    • Do you have an online store?

  10. I wish I was patient and/or precise enough to attempt my own homemade soap making. I buy handmade soaps, instead of the store-bought variety, but I simply don’t think I could manage this kind of project. I’m thankful that people like you do, though, because that means I can enjoy additive-free soaps, too!

    • I love HP soaping.. I’m the most impatient person! And I’m none too precise.. You only need to be precise to the gram, ml or ounce, don’t stress about it.. Just do it! Heaps of addictive skin friendly fun, however I would substitute some of the coconut oil in this recipe for sustainable palm or rice bran ( vitamin e helps with preserving it and good for skin) or macadamia( close to mans skins ph non comodogenic ) great post! Thanks.

  11. This is soooooo cool. I don’t know why I never thought about doing this lol but I appreciate how easy you have made it! Do you know if the company that you purchase your ingredients from is a cruelty-free company?

  12. Can you use a regular pot, instead of a slow cooker. Haven’t seen them here in Norway.

    • Try Amazon, I got my slow cooker or crock pot from them. Never before heard of such a pot before here in Germany, but it was easily found there.

    • I’ve been making soap for years using a regular pot on the stove. Only recently have I heard of using a crock pot. Both use the same recipe & basic steps, but the crock pot seems to be much easier…less babysitting. 🙂 So check online for the steps on using a pot on the stove & have fun!

      • I make soap using a cast iron bean pot over an open fire. You really can use any heat source you want as long as you are paying attention and adjusting accordingly.

  13. I’d love to make soap myself but I live in a small apartment in NYC with three very curious cats and using lye is not an option since I don’t have an “outside” if you will. I do purchase handmade soap from a farmer’s market and I have been holding on to the scraps. I have heard of rebatched soap. Do you have a recipe for that or any suggestions? I would appreciate any advice.Thanks!

    • Hi Donna!

      Not sure if you ever got an answer to your question, but I save all my scraps from soap making and rebatch them once I have a large amount. I don’t know if different types of soaps can be rebatched together – you might want to do a google search to find results. You can just grate the soap using an old cheese grater/shredder (think yard sale or resale store if you don’t have an old one), put it in the crock pot on low, and add a very small amount of water to help it get going. Stir occasionally until all the lumps are melted and it looks kind of like thin mashed potatoes, and then spoon QUICKLY into whatever mold you want to use. I have used empty Pringles cans, works like a charm! After 10-12 hours, tear the can away from your soap and use a wire or a sharp knife to cut it. Leave the newly cut rounds in a dry, cool location for at least 2 days (I leave my rebatched soap sit for a week at minimum, just to allow it to fully set up and the excess moisture to leave the soap); otherwise, you will end up with very soft soap that disappears quickly. Keep in mind that you will probably have air bubbles in your set up soap, just because it will be lumpy when you mold it. But honestly, it doesn’t matter! Bubbles or no, it’s still a great way to get the most out of your expensive soap purchase (or to recycle left over pieces, in my case.)

      Good luck!!!!

    • I just made my first batch in my Brooklyn apt. I only have a slight window sill as out door space. I opened the window and put it there. I also put a fan on in the kitchen to make sure all air was moving out. I was quite nervous about the process, but it was fine! I’d just put the cats in the bathroom for the 30 minutes it takes to deal with the lye and clean up afterwards.

  14. So this soap cleanses you like a store bought soap for showering? Approximately how many drops is an ounce of essential oil? Thank you thank you

    • Yes, soap is soap, it all cleanses!! The difference between handmade soap and store-bought soap is that …for one you know what goes in it (and can use natural or exceptional ingredients)… And store-bought soap has been so altered, they remove the glycerin, have lots of non natural additives… Some can hardly be called soap anymore but rather “detergent bars”.

      As for measuring out essential oils. Trying to determine drops per oz would be extremely tedious. Most essential oils that you buy in the health food store come in .5 ounces. So you would need two of those bottles to make an ounce. Just look at the weight on the bottle. Another way to figure it out is by measurement. Even though Soapmaking uses weights the liquid measurements for scent (don’t use liquid measurements for base oils) will get you close enough. 3 tsp in 1 Tablespoon. 2 Tbl are an ounce.

    • A rough estimate for measuring drops is 5 mL = 1 teaspoon, and 6 teaspoons = 1 ounce. If you have therapeutic grade essential oils, you might need less. I’m not sure what sort of EOs were used in the original recipe.

  15. Do the weights need to be that precise… 4.844 ounces? My scale only goes to 2 decimal places. Is it better to round up or down?

  16. What about liquid soap? I like using liquid in a pump bottle. Do you have a recipe for that? Is the lye what makes it bubbly/foamy?

  17. I have absolutely loved everything you have created up to this…. What’s the point !!

  18. Yes, I too would like to know the amount of essential oil to put in at the end. Also, is this the same soap that can be used as a face wash soap for sensitive/acne prone skin? Thanks!!

  19. What size molds do you use and how many soaps will this recipe make with that size? Love the idea and can’t wait to get started!

  20. I have been wanting to try my hand at making soap for ages now. With such an easy recipe I may just have no more excuses for putting it off! 🙂

  21. Can you use almond oil?

  22. Hello Katie!
    how big is this crok pot (the you have in the picture)? Do you think a 3qt would be enough ? Thanks a lot!

  23. Does anyone have a good recipe for breast milk soap? I think it would be a good way to use my freezer supply.

    • Please contact your hopsital to see if they could use the milk first. Or a le leche league.

  24. I have extremely dry skin in the winter, and have been using Dove for years. Will this be moisturizing enough for me? If not, what are some good additions? Thank you so much for this post!!

    • Slow cook the oil with cannabis leaves for 8-12 hours on low, run through a French press and follow the recipe..the cannbinoids will help hold moisture and act as a natural anti-inflamitory and pain reliever

  25. I have been making homemade soap for 2 years now. I love it. You can create a soap to satisfy your skin”s need. Homemade soap cleanse wonderfully with out toxins. Just try it you will be hooked. I like to make soap in the crockpot. You can use it quicker. Yet the cold process soap is quicker to make.

  26. Just curious, but can this recipe be turned into a liquid soap instead of bars?

  27. How many bath size bars will this make.

  28. Um, Castile (Castilla) is in Spain. 🙂

  29. I too am wondering the crockpot/slow cooker size? How do i know the temp is 120-130? And finally, is the coconut oil measured when a liquid or solid? Is fractionated coconut oil ok to use?-although im sure expensive in big quantities. 😉 looking Girard to the answers so i can give soap making a try. Been sitting on the sidelines quite a while now. Looking forward to using your recipe. Thanks!

  30. I am interested in knowing the approximate cost per bar… maybe a 3 oz. bar?
    I am looking for a cost-effective way to provide soap for Operation Christmas Child boxes.

  31. I am not clear on how to measure the lye, do I weigh it?

  32. Katie, first off- you’re awesome. Never doubt that, even on your off “I’m a real person & need to rant” moments… That just makes you more awesome. Secondly, can I use a hand mixer instead of a stick mixer to mix the soap? Having 3 kids makes it a little hard to splurge on extras sometimes (though I did buy a scale since that seemed pertinent).

    • I bought an off brand el cheapo stick blender from Amazon for $14.00 with free shipping. TOTALLY worth it! (I’m also a mom to three, and we’re a one income family, so I totally get where you’re coming from!)

      • I bought mine on craigslist for $10. Works great!

  33. Hi Katie,
    I have been making a ton of your recipes and I love them all thank you! Is it possible to put the soap into cupcake papers (in a metal tin) so that it is has the cute crinkle edge ? Do the molds have to be silicone and if so why?
    Also, I have been making your “smooth lotion” for my daughter’s eczema but how much of the Essential oils do you put in? I am not sure if i am using too much or if Lavender just does not work well with Cocoa butter.
    Thanks again!

    • I think you could totally put the soap in the little papers! I use the molds because I have them, but I don’t see why it would not work. and I don’t think cocoa and lavender work too well myself. You might try adding a little peppermint in to help.

  34. My husband and I just made soap out of pig/ lard and olive oil, so far, so good. Its at it’s curing stage and it looks and smells great.

    • Hi, I actually have a few jars of rendered lard I made from some local hogs when they were processed in the fall. Please let me know how your soap turns out as i am ready to make some soap but never thought of using the lard.

      Thank you!!

      • I made soap from lard and olive oil too. Found the recipe on a different site but used the method on this blog post. Best soap EVER!!

      • I only use lard, coconut oil, goat milk, & lye in my soap

  35. Can I infuse the olive oil with herbs before pouring into the crock pot?
    Can I Use coconut milk or goat’s milk or herbal tea instead of the water? (or – half water and half other liquid??)…… Christmas is 2 weeks away and I am dying to make this soap for my family! Thank you so much for your time and wonderful, wonderful website!!!

  36. How much does this recipe yield? 3 pounds?
    Can this recipe be cut down by 1/3 to just make a pound?

  37. Hello Katie
    Can I use the ratios that you’ve used to change into a smaller amount. Will that affect the quality of the soap?
    Also I don’t have a crockpot, so what else Can I use?

    • I’d use the soap calculator I link to if you reduce the recipe to make sure your ratios are correct and you can cold process soap without a crock pot.

  38. Can you use this homemade soap to make laundry detergent?

    • Hm… I haven’t tried that, but I think maybe I should 🙂

      • I’ve been making my own soap for many years now and I use it for my homemade laundry detergent as well. It works great! Even for HE machines.

  39. I just made this soap for the first time and when I poured the mixture into the molds it was clumpy on top. I though it would just set as the time went on but the top of the soap is not a clean straight look like yours in the picture. Did I do something wrong or is this just what it’s supposed to be? Maybe I cooked it too long? Any feedback is appreciated. I do love them anyway and will be making them again! Thanks for the recipe!

  40. Just a little memory helper for you:
    Do as you oughta
    Add acid to wata

    That will help you if you over think things. LOL But you don’t want to do it wrong as it will spit the water/lye mix out at you if you add it the other way.

  41. Is Lye the sane as the lye waterwe use in cooking or baking?

    • I’m not sure, but I wouldn’t think so since this Lye is toxic if ingested

    • Maybe you’re thinking of lime water, used in pickling and other foods. That’s calcium hydroxide.

  42. I haven’t tried making soap yet. A little nervous but going to go for it. Do you recommend anything to add for an exfoliating factor? I am looking to make something like the Kiehl’s Ultimate Man Body Scrub soap for my husband. Just discovering the world of natural living and
    I am loving your website- thank you!

  43. Lol….this brings back memories….I was making soap 25 years ago when my kids were small and we were raising goats. Yes, you can use this for laundry soap, but you need to leave it dry for a couple of weeks (or longer), then grate it down, and mix 1/3 soap flakes, 1/3 borax, and 1/3 laundry soda. I still make my own laundry soap, but I buy the soap now. Hmmmm…..may pop by the thrift store and pick up a slow cooker ;-)……. I used to use the 500ml and 1000ml milk/cream containers for molds…..open up the tops and pour in the soap. Once it’s ready you just peal off the container.

  44. I used to make a lot of my own soap, and often used it for the laundry. I poured it about an inch deep into a shallow box lined with waxed paper and let it cure. When it was set and firm but not hard, I would cut it into bar size blocks, and left it in the box for more curing. After it became hard enough for grating, I would grate it with an attachment to my mixer, then store it in zip lock bags. It did not dissolve as easily as commercial laundry detergent, so it was important to use warm or hot water, add the soap to the tub of water, and agitate to dissolve the soap before adding the laundry. Otherwise, it was great!

  45. Lye in itself is toxic, that is correct. Nevertheless it is used for baking in a very diluted form. The heat of the oven fuels a chemical reaction with the dough and the end product, like soap, is perfectly harmless and can be eaten without problems. Some kind of pretzel is made that way.

  46. Hi Katie.

    I am ready to try making soap this year! I was curious if I could use just lard/or beef fat for all the oil portion and do everything else the same?

    I have all the ingredients either way. I would just like to do something with the fat! I saw a lady using beef fat at a Pioneer Days event we went to and she was making lovely soap. I even bought some that she had made weeks earlier. It was great.

    Thanks!

    • You definitely can, but I’d use the soap calculator link to make sure the proportions are the same. It should be listed as tallow or beef fat there.

  47. Okay. So the link to the soap calculator is going to help me a ton!! I think that will answer my previous question. 🙂

    Thank you!

  48. I’ve been thinking about making my own soap for awhile now but, frankly, I was scared. I read so much information online and it sounded dangerous! I put it off for another six months.

    Reading this page, however, really made me determined to try making it. I went out yesterday on a shopping spree and bought everything I needed.

    Last night I made TWO batches of soap and it couldn’t have been easier. I measured carefully and slowly……..and did not rush anything. Easy peasy!

    This morning I rushed downstairs to check my soaps and they look great. I couldn’t help myself, though, and had to cut off a piece and headed straight for the shower, lol.

    I love it, thank you! My advice to others? Read lots, don’t hurry, and be careful. 🙂

  49. Hello, to whom it may concern, I am from Australia (Melbourne) were can I buy your organic soap made from coconut oil
    and olive oil, I disagree soap made from palm oil, I don’t like soap from palm oil at all. Please can you tell me were can I
    buy your products. Thank you.

  50. I made a batch of soap by myself for the first time and it separated! What did I do wrong?

    • When did it separate? After you put it in the molds? Is that what you mean?

  51. Maybe I missed this detail, but how many bars on average does one batch make you?

  52. After reading all the info, do you really have to put Lye. What would happen if you didn’t. Thanks

    • You would have water and a bunch of oils/butters that don’t mix.

  53. Can you substitute any oil for the coconut oil? I am allergic to coconut oil and it is hard to find natural soap and shampoo recipes with out it.

    • Yes you can substitute any oil. Some perform better than others but you can use all olive oil if you like. You could substitute lard or tallow as well from pork or beef. I would suggest finding an alternative this is also hard at room temp but pure olive oil soap is supposed to be really nice.

      Good luck!!

  54. Hi Katie, I tried this recipe and the soap didn’t harden as much as I thought it should. After putting into the mold I let it set for 24 hours and then it was hard enough to cut into bars. I let it sit for a few more days before using it. I cut the bars about 1 1/2 inches think but a bar only lasts about 5 days after starting to use it. Organic soaps I’ve bought are much harder and last longer. Any ideas? Thanks! Melissa

    • I wonder if you didn’t let it cure long enough. Set it aside for a few weeks and then try using it again.

      • Thanks. I will try that next time.

  55. I have made this recipe a handful of times (which I love your recipe, thank you for sharing), but was distracted this last time I made it. I poured the contents into the molds and it looked a lot oilier than normal. I’m thinking I didn’t let it cook long enough. Will it still work out or did I just waste a bunch of ingredients?

    • If the ratios were right, it will still work, it just may need to set a little longer before use.

  56. Hello! I am interested in making soap as wedding favors! I have never done it before but it seems rather cost effective and thoughtful! Has anyone made a lot of this recipe before? Any tips? I am thinking of making it in a loaf form, does anyone have any tips as to cutting it?
    Thanks in advance!

  57. Just a funny observation in your article. You really should be nicer to your molds… “the resulting mixture is poured into insulted molds.”

    • Haha… thanks. Good catch 🙂 (Almost always typing with a baby in arms, and sometimes I miss a letter!)

  58. Has anyone ever used a soap kettle? I saw one at Michaels and with a 50% off coupon it is not that expensive but all I read about it is to melt glycerine soap in it etc. Is it recommended to make soap from scratch with lye, coconut and olive oil etc.? I want to spare myself searching second hand stores for a slow cooker…

  59. I used this recipe and directions to make soap for the first time. It was super easy and the soap works great! The only issue I had was once I was through cooking the mixture, it was difficult to spoon it into the molds, getting it to settle down into the molds. It was like trying to fill in a space with cool whip. Did I cook it too long (1 hr) or maybe did I get the mixture too thick when blending?

    Thanks!

  60. I wouldn’t recommended using a hot process using olive oil as heating olive oil is extremely damaging to olive oil and creating a lot of free radicals in the oil. Unfortunately many people think olive oil is good to cook with and it is not as you create a lot of free radicals that can tax the immune system.

    For a hot process I would recommend all coconut oil and no olive oil

    For a cold process, olive oil is great, however, there’s a lot that can go into in evaluating whether one has purchased good olive oil and whether it’s been handled properly (in the USA companies are not required to use 100% olive oil to be labeled olive oil).

      • Thanks for the link, and I’m glad you wrote on olive oil, and I found it very informative. Many soap makers, even professionals and companies, unfortunately mishandle or improperly store their ingredients.

        Luckily we have concerned people like yourself out there doing research and attempting to inform the public on health issues.

  61. Hello Katie,
    You have the best blog.
    Having said that, instead of following your instructions for either the hot or the cold process, I decided to go for a happy middle and ended up in a war zone.
    I don’t have a slow cooker, so once I poured the lye water into the oils, I kept stirring on the stove at a very low setting.
    The soap curdled!
    It was 500g of olive oil, 70g coconut, 70g castor, 50g jojoba… NOOOOOOOOOOOO!
    I went online ASAP and someone said to mix the oily part with some flour, but I have no flour at home!
    The closest thing I had to a powder soap ingredient was… diatomaceous earth. Otherwise I could have used hemp protein powder…? (I just thought of it).
    Anyways, I added 2 tsp and made a new batch with 100g olive oil to integrate it… but in the haste I added the earth to the oil, forgetting completely the lye… never mind
    I found myself with a pot of hard paste, similar to pumpkin paste, just slightly less orangey.
    I had to make a decision: Lose the batch or try to recover it.
    I decided to make another 500ml of olive oil soap and add the paste slowly until saturation, see what happened.
    I tried using a whisker, but it didn’t integrate, so I went for the stick blender; but I knew I would have to do it all at once instead of pouring small amounts because as soon as the blender started, the liquid would become solid.
    I had to work the paste for a long time with the stick blender and it was very tough to get it in a homogeneous state, but I MADE IT GO RIGHT!!!
    Or so I think.
    I have put it in molds and tomorrow I will check on it.
    Two questions:
    1. I’m afraid the saponification has not been as homogeneous as it should, and don’t know how safe it will be to use that soap on the skin.
    2. What will be the effects of the diatomaceous earth on the skin?
    Basically, do I gift-wrap it once dry and give it to my friends or my enemies?
    I will wait for your answer while the soap cures…
    Thanks for your amazing post.

    • What an adventure! I’d let it cure longer since it might not have fully cooked. Since the DE isn’t in powder state it should be completely safe on the skin as the only major risk is inhalation of the powder. It might actually be amazing for the skin 🙂 Let me know how it turns out and I’d love to share it if it turns out well!

  62. Hi Katie, great recipe, I can’t wait to try it out! Just one question, if I wanted to add Shea butter, what percentage of that should I incorporate into the recipe? Thanks again in advance!

  63. Hi Katie,

    Thanks for the lovely recipe.
    I love soap making and I read online that coconut oil in soap making should be kept below 30% as it will have a drying effect if use more than that. I am not sure how true is this. What is your experience with coconut oil in soap making?
    I recently made a batch of hot process soap, it feels little dry or waxy on my hand compared to cold process soap I made. Is this normal?

    Thanks. Have a great day!

  64. I used this recipe and directions to make soap for the first time. It was super easy and the soap works great! The only issue I had was once I was through cooking the mixture, it was difficult to spoon it into the molds, getting it to settle down into the molds. It was like trying to fill in a space with cool whip. Did I cook it too long (1 hr) or maybe did I get the mixture too thick when blending?

    Thanks!

  65. I’m so glad I found your site! I’m making homemade soap for the first time in about a week. I’m going to make your recipe, but I have a few questions!

    First of all, should I measure the water by weight or volume? Probably a dumb question since it would be impossible to measure out exactly 12.something-or-other ounces of water in a measuring cup, but I’m kind of terrified of lye, and I don’t want any weirdness happening, and I definitely want my soap to turn out!

    Secondly, I’d like to add lavender essential oil to this recipe. How many drops do you recommend? I’m planning on using your recipe exactly, not doubling it or anything.

    And finally, do you have any suggestions as far as tinting the soap? This is actually for baby shower favors, and her colors are sea foam, mint green and baby blue. I’m leaning toward the baby blue, but I’m not sure what to use to tint it. I’d like to go as natural as possible, but there are so many options–powders, liquids, spices, etc. What would you suggest? Thank you!! 🙂

  66. Emily,

    you measure everything by weight. Don’t be afraid of the lye. Wear protection as recommended. You need to relax so you don’t drop it 🙂 Katie recommends up to 1 oz. I made the 4th batch with this recipe and have used 20-40 drops for a batch and you can smell it. I would not even add color. Don’t make it to complicated for the first time plus with the hot process you might not have time to add it or mess up your batch. The soap dries fast. I think the natural color would just be fine. I use a silicone form with little hearts to make samples and put the rest in a shoe box. There is not too much time to fill once the soap is ready in the slow cooker. Why don’t you just use nice colored little sachets to put the soap in. Sometimes they have them at the dollar tree. You might want to try a batch first to see how it works. Have fun!

    • Oh my gosh oh my gosh oh my gosh!!!! okay, so I tried making soap for the first time the other night, and I am HOOKED!! I didn’t use your recipe posted above–I found a recipe at another site that contained lard, so I made that recipe, but followed your instructions for the hot process. (I wanted to try a “test” batch to make sure that I can actually do this, but I didn’t want to buy a bunch of expensive oils and other ingredients in case it didn’t turn out. The recipe I used called for lard and olive oil.) It was SO much fun!! I’m going to be making your recipe for the actual baby shower gifts once I get all the ingredients (now that I know I can do it!). Working with the lye wasn’t nearly as scary as I thought it would be. I just carried my water and lye outside separately, and mixed them very carefully. I’m so glad I found your site. I can’t wait to try your recipe. The soap I made in my test batch is great, but I think your recipe will be much more moisturizing and will smell even better! 🙂

  67. Question: My brother likes soaps with oatmeal – for a little scrubbing affect. Has anyone used this in this recipe? I’ve never made soap, and have a long list of things to purchase and have been putting it off for a couple years now. He loves patchoulli – so that will be my first scented soap. Wish me luck!

  68. I made 2 batches within 3 days and it all went very well. Thanks so much for the recipe and wonderful directions!!! My question is what we made…is it considered ca stile soap? If it isn’t can it be substituted for the same?

  69. I made this batch a couple of weeks ago and it was my first batch in a crock pot. I think cold process is easier and the bars that I made cold process are hard solid bars. When I tried this recipe, the soap came out amazing but soft and dissolves quickly. Especially with my three boys leaving it in the bottom of the tub which I try my hardest to prevent. What did I do wrong in this batch? My soap is too soft.

  70. I just took my soap out of the molds and I was horrified at how my pour was so crap-tastic. Maybe I have some questions. I think the first thing is tools: I have a stick whisk. It’s like the blender thing-er-ma-gigs but instead of that lovely double blade it’s well a whisk. This made my mixture really fluffy like fluffy egg white fluffy. This is wrong right? I didn’t have to pour at all instead I had this stuff that acted like from the box mashed potatoes. I think because of this I got really ugly (but nice smelling) bars of soap that have tons of pockets where I wasn’t smart enough to press down the fluffy soap into the mold. No go on the power whisking I guess? Anyway I used Lemon and Peppermint last my scent for these so my apartment smells awesome.

    It was a very fun project though and I think I will try again when my counter space is available.

    • You might want to try out if you didn’t make “floating soap”. The whisk certainly has beaten a lot of air into the soap, that’s why it looks funny. It’s still soap, though, even if it doesn’t look like you expected it. You may not want to gift it, but you’ll enjoy using it yourself, I’m sure.

      Get a cheap stick blender for future tries (but make sure not to overheat it while making the soap, switch to manual stirring with the stick blender when it starts to get warm) and it’ll work out better.

  71. Just wanted to say thank you for this recipe. I’ve made a fair bit of cold process soap, but this was my intro to hot process. Given the shorter interval between making and using, along with the ease of adding ingredients after saponification is complete, this may prove to be the new norm.

    The article might benefit from a more detailed description of how to tell when the soap is “done” (and photos?) I did some further research to determine this, but having never seen hot process before I really wasn’t sure if my soap fluffing up in the pot was normal or heralded catastrophe.

    Also, having noted an earlier comment about the “dangers” of olive oil when heated, and having subsequently read the link you provided, I thank you for providing good information and being well informed. The almost 200 my soap reached is way below the conservative smoke point of olive oil at 325, so I think my hands will be safe from spontaneous cancerification.

  72. This is awesome thanks for the post!

    Wondering if it’s possible to use something like coconut MILK for the soap and how I would alter the recipe to use??

    Thanks!!

  73. What is the name of the Lye you use?

  74. Hi, thanks for the recipe 🙂 gearing myself up to making this soap (my first time) and I was wondering if anyone could advise me on whether or not I could add oats to the mixture? And at what point during the process? Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks again xx

  75. Five weeks ago I made my first batch of Patchouli scented soap. I put the oats in at the same time as the scent – once the lye/water and warmed oils had cooled to about 105 degrees and were being stirred together. I’m now using my soap and love the oats in it. I sprinkled some in the bottom of a container and it looks awesome and decorative. Can’t wait to make my second batch.

  76. Thanks Linda! I’ll be trying this tomorrow!xx

  77. I’m sorry if I have missed this question in the comments. But can I line my crockpot with aluminum foil and then still be able to use it for food or should I find an old crockpot? Also, can you add little honey to this to make a honey soap- about 2 tsps or 2 tbls? I love the smell of honey soap!

    • Please never, never, never use anything with aluminium when making soap as it reacts really badly with the lye and accordingly with the uncooked soap. Better find an old crockpot or if you can find those plastic crockpot liners use those.

      And yes, you can add a bit of honey after the cooking without problems (about 1 Tbls per 500g of your fats). The soap will feel sticky at first and needs a longer drying time, but it’s worth the wait.
      Also adding one Tbls of yoghurt or sour milk after the cooking makes putting the soap into the mold much easier as the soap batter gets a bit more fluid. Warm up the honey and/or yoghurt thorougly before adding so it doesn’t cool down your soap batter before it’s in the mold.

  78. Is it possible to overcook the soap???

    • Yes, if it gets too hard, but it will still work, it just may not have as pretty of a texture.

      • It just got crazy fluffy in the crockpot- I got nervous- haha. Seems to be setting great though.
        Thx!!

  79. I am SUPER excited to make this tomorrow! I’m even going to drop my 5yr old off at his grandmothers for a few hours so I don’t have to worry about him 🙂
    Question tho- I have an older crock pot that i’m planning on using…is it OK to make food items again in the pot after using it to make soap? Same with the immersion blender? I guess it might be a silly question, since it is SOAP in the end, but I wanted to make sure that if I need to set this crock pot aside for soap-making only, I’m prepared. Thank you!

  80. There are two opinions about it. One says it’s ok (and I’m with that as any harmful chemicals are gone after the cooking), the other is totally against ever, ever, ever using that crock for food again.

    You will have to clean the pot thoroughly, that’s clear, and I would advice not using any fragrance oils for the soap still in the pot. Those are hard to get rid of and I wouldn’t want to eat a roast with flower aroma ;-).

    • I have a crock pot that’s dedicated for soap making only. Even after rinsing it with hot water and vinegar and running it through the dishwasher, I still see a lot of white etching/scratches in the crock (it’s black and very visible). It’s probably fine to use for food, but I’d rather be safe than sorry!

  81. hello everybody
    Use your crock for whatever you want to, as long as it is the removable crockery type You need to immerse it in hot water to remove soap and very rarely , lye splashes… If you pour your lye slowly down the metal barrel of your stick blender, it will not splash. ALWAYS USE GOGGLES AND GLOVES… wipe down the rest of it with your cleaning stuff at least 2ce. I’ve been using mine for several years for food and soap.
    the only thing that may be hard to remove are some scents, especially if there has been some glazing ( teeny cracks in the glassy finish of your crockery.) I have a very large crock pot that I use only for colored soaps. I love cold process for the fluidity and ability to play longer with the batter, but hot process keeps scent longer ( because I do not add it until the very end)
    laurie

  82. Oh, and I use additives ; oats , clays, ground seeds/ seaweed, sodium lactate, liquid silk, natural colorants during the applesauce stage, somewhere mid cook…
    sodium lactate , or non-iodized finely ground salt mixed with a few table spoons of your recipe water can be added for hardness, easier release from molds, and believe it or not, skin conditioning… start with a tablespoon of salt and 3 tablespoons of warm water . strain or not…( the few grains of salt left add a touch of exfoliation ) Add right after lye water has been mixed in.

  83. can i use a plastic stick blender instead of a metal one? Thanks!

    • I use a plastic one. Found an el cheapo one on amazon for $15 and it’s great!

    • Hey Tammy- I used a plastic one and it was fine! Great recipe?

  84. Hi Katie, I love your postings! Can I use a rice cooker inatead?

    • I’ve never tried… I don’t know if you could keep the temperature low enough for long enough

  85. I have read this recipe and want to get ready to “FINALLY” make our soap. Last frontier for me to battle. My question is with Coconut oil. Do you melt it to a liquid form to measure it? Why? Why can’t it stay in a solid form? I see all other butters can be used and I am confused here. Thank You for this and taking time to share with us. I so appreciate all of your work and share with family and friends too!

    • I weigh mine while it’s solid and then melt it in the crockpot and add the olive oil later. I’ve never had a problem doing it that way.

  86. So I made the soap and it formed well! Unfortunately I thought that approx 15 drops of tea tree oil would be enough to get a good scent and I was sadly mistaken! Is there any way to add essential oil after the soap is made? I don’t suppose I could re- melt it??

    • you can “re batch” the soap. If it is within a week or so of making it, simply cut up the soap in to chunks. Make another (maybe a double batch) of soap, maybe a different color ? and add chunks into the pot at the very end. Stir to coat, and pour into your molds. I did one that was a lavender, which was pale grey, and chunked it into a white bar…you can add extra essential or scent oils and it really looks pretty when cut. Sometimes on lavender soap I sprinkle dried lavender on top too!

  87. Remelting soap is possible, but takes quite a few hours. And if your soap looks good as it is, I wouldn’t bother about it. After a drying time of about four weeks you can wrap your soap into cellophane (theres a sort that lets the soap breathe or you poke some holes into it with a needle, it shouldn’t be completely airtight). If you pack a bit of tissue wetted with tea tree oil into it as well, the soap will take on the scent. Just refresh the tissue now and then and the soap should smell good soon.

  88. I made this soap the other day and it beautiful, its the second batch of soap I have ever made. I recommend this recipe. Your such a clever lady! Thankyou for sharing.

  89. What is this 76 degrees I see every now and then in regards to coconut oil?

    • It melts at 76 degrees. Below and it is solid.

  90. I made soap recently that I used the CP method. I made Coconut Oil and Extra Virgin Olive Oil soap as your website provides the recipe for. When I did the water (prior to mixing with lye), I brewed nettles in it first and then removed the tea leaves. I put a lot more tea leaves as it brewed, by accident. But all were removed when using it with the lye. I also added walnut shell powder when it came to trace. Then I stirred in peppermint oil (approx .25 ounces) before the trace was too thick. When my soap cooled it had some holes in it, and it’s greasy – seems like it’s leaking oils. I know your process is not Cold Process, but do you have any thoughts on where I went wrong? I love your recipe exactly as you have described it, but I just had to experiment, and now have questions 🙂
    Thank you so much for your time!!

  91. I noticed you say only ‘water’ and not distilled or spring. Although I’m very new to soap making, I thought tap water was unacceptable due to impurities it may have reacting with the lye?

    • true! You should use distilled water, because there are many other nasties in the water that we use at home, that can interfere with the soap content.

  92. Hi! I’m so excited to make this recipe. I purchased everything I needed today, except I just realized I forgot Parchment paper. Can I spray the molds with something or should I make a run out?

    • You have to use parchment paper ,or a silicone mold. If you spray with another ‘oil’ your lye will react with that also, and your soap will be really stuck to the sides of this mold. Does that make sense? I have used washed and dried pringle cans without a liner, but had to peel the paper off the soap, like crescent rolls. lol.

  93. How many bars of soap does this make approx? Also, how many drops of essential oils do you add?

    • Hi Danielle. I’ve made this soap twice, the first time using a 1 litre soy milk container and small glass pan for molds. I ended up with 5 large bars and many smaller ones that are great for hand washing. The second time I made this soap, I weighed my finished bars (13 decent size) and it was approximately 1200 grams. So it depends on what kind of mold you use and how thick you cut the soap. The soy milk container was actually perfect! No need for parchment paper and no problem at all removing the soap 🙂

  94. Hi! I just made my first batch of soap ever! It was mommypotamus’s coconut oil soap. But now I’m wondering…I have a 2 year old and a 6 month old…is the coconut oil soap gentle enough for babies? WellnessMama, what homemade soap do you use on your little ones? Is this coconut oil and olive oil recipe gentle enough? Thank you!

  95. I have found this website called: http://www.brambleberry.com/mobile/Natural-Castile-Liquid-Soap-Base-P4609.aspx

    Is this recipe similar to the soap found on that link? It seems like the base sold there is pretty cheap and with a 2lb base you can dilute it to 8lbs. Will making soap from your recipe be cheaper than soaps founds on this website and if so by how much (approximation is fine)? I’m just decide if I should make my own or buy a base and mix in my fragrances.

    I’m a guy and I never thought I’ll be making my own soap but this looks fun!

    • That question doesn’t have a ready answer.
      First, the soap base you mention is a liquid soap base while this recipe here gives a hard soap bar. And your price for making the soap depends on what you put into it. You can get very cheap oils and make your soap that way or you’ll go all out and use only ecologically produces oils or, or, or.
      You will have to add up the prices for your ingredients and how much soap you can make from them and then compare it with the soap base prices (don’t forget to include postage when buying online).
      I suspect the prices won’t differ by much, so it’s more a question of wanting to do it yourself or not.

      • Well, let me clarify. I definitely want to try this out with my daughter so we can make our custom soaps with the scents we like using essential oils. But when I asked if one was cheaper than the other I was referring to the base. Whether it’s a liquid or a solid recipe, is it significantly cheaper or better quality (I’m not sure if brambleberry keeps all of the glycerin or other goodies in their formula or strips it out) to make on your own or order from an online company and mix in your scents? If the price difference is only minimal, let’s say a 10% difference and the quality is comparable then I rather not go through the trouble with the crockpot and lye or have to wait for it to cook.

  96. This is my first time ever making soap and i absolutely love it!! I can go on and on about it, but I am actually here for a quick question. I have tried to take these soap bars and use in various other recipes, using this soap as the “bar castile soap” in said recipes (examples, grating for body wash and laundry detergent). The recipes are calling for pure castile soap, which, from my understanding, is this soap, yet when used, the recipe is not congealing as it should. Please help?

    • Castile soap is made with 100% olive oil. There’s no coconut oil or other oils in it.

    • I’m new to soap making as well but I do believe a pure, castile soap is ALL olive oil 🙂

    • The others are correct. Castil(l)e soap is made from 100% Olive Oil. And for laundry detergent there should be no superfatting as the laundry won’t profit by free oil in the soap, but your skin does.
      You can make 100% Olive oil soap the same way as the recipe here to get Castil(l)e soap for laundry detergent. It might take longer to reach trace and cooking time will vary, too, but it works. True Casti(l)le soap will need a longer drying time though to get hard, so don’t worry if it doesn’t get very hard soon. It might be easier to grate while it’s softer, though.
      For a body wash you’ll need superfatting, though.
      You can use a lye calculator for preparing the correct recipe, there are quite a few out there, e. g. http://soapcalc.net/calc/soapcalcwp.asp or https://www.thesage.com/calcs/LyeCalc.html
      The latter is a bit easier to work with as a beginner in my opinion.

  97. Brambleberry is an indepth website with alot of information, body product tutorials and business musings . So much fun. AnneMarie sells a ton of stuff for soap and lotion makers. The entire soaping community has been leaning toward more natural fragrances and coloring of soaps, even though the more brilliantly swirled soaps are really fun and attractive. Katie, I think you should do more tutorials on youtube !
    Laur

  98. Is It really necessary to use a stick blender? I do not have one, and was just wondering if I could just stir it real well.

    • Yes. That’s how soap was made before kitchen electronics were invented =) It will take much longer depending on what oils you use (for example a high-olive oil formula takes the longest. Using Palm oil will shorten the time to trace, etc.) You can stir for a while, leave it sit for a few minutes and then come back and stir more. Repeat until the soap is traced.

  99. I have a question. I live in Jakarta and I cannot find Lye. My friend uses caustic soap?? which she gets from someone and says it works ok. However, I did find a liquid, alkaline Lye in Singapore at an organic food shop, (that is what the bottle says). Will that work? or does it need to be a powder? I cannot transport Lye on an International flight. Please help, thank you!

  100. Hi there! I am new, and just made this recipe in crock pot….measured very carefully…and the mixture still zaps (even with LOTS of extra cook time). I added hot water, continued to stir and cook…monitoring carefully. Still zaps. What can I do? can you help me save it??!!??! I hope so!

  101. p.s. I measured all by weighing carefully. I cooked it for over 4 hours… must sleep, so added more water and put on “warm” instead of low. (When I did this saw some beautiful soap bubbles! But still zapped). What could I have done wrong??! Thanks for your help!

    • I know this is a couple months too late, but maybe someone else can also benefit.

      There was something off about your measurements apparently. What you had was lye-heavy soap. Just adding water won’t help, as you likely found out. The only possible fix would have been adding more of your oils in small amounts at a time (like 1 ounce), stirring well, cooking longer and testing til “no zap”. You can definitely save crockpot soap that way. You would also want to add a bit more water as time goes on, if it takes a while to reach full saponification of the oils with no left over lye. When the soap gets hard to stir and takes on a waxy appearance, that’s your clue to add another ounce of water.

      What type of scale were you using? Soapmaking is just like baking. If you do not have very accurate measuring methods, the final result will be off. Hopefully you have since tried it again and been successful! I LOVE making soap and won’t use anything but my own as I have since 1999.

  102. I just used a regular blender with 1 attachment and my soap came out great! 🙂

  103. I read a lot of the comments but didn’t see this question addressed. Since olive oil doesn’t have a really long shelf life, does that affect the life of the soap? I like to leave soaps to air/shelf dry for a long time and wouldn’t want to risk having the olive oil go bad (rancid). I’m wondering if the cooking and rendering clear up that problem.

    • Olive oil, when it’s fresh and then properly saponified, as a soap will last for years. Remember that there is little to no oil left in properly made and cured soap. It becomes a substance called sodium olivate – and it lasts a long time and gets rock hard and super-mild.

  104. Has anyone used this recipe to do hand milled soap? We usually use triple killed soap at home and while I really like the soap it does not last long for a family of eight. I would like to try hand milling it, but wondered if anyone else has experience? Thanks.

  105. There are so many comments! I hope no one asked this but I couldn’t read them all! When would you add dried herbs- like lavender? I’m assuming it would be when you add the essential oils, but I would like to be sure before I try on my own.

    • yes you can, but most dry brown, just so you know. You can also infuse your distilled water with lavender, herbs or rose petals…asgan, may turn a white soap beige. Lovely smells though! When I make lavender or “spa” soap, I top it with dried lavender or rosemary, pressing it lightly into the soap. If you do this, cut your soap upside down, s you dont drag the topping down through the entire soap. Ass when you do the essential oils.

  106. Hi, I made learning how to do soap my new year’s goal for this year. So far, I have been soaping for about three months. I tried cold process, as well as hot process (like this recipe), and love it! It is a perfect combination of creativity and art. With hot process it is sometimes hoarder to get patterns and colors, but i have been playing with beet powder, alkanet root powder, turmeric and other powders, mixed with a little oil or water, and mixed either into the crock pot, or part of the soap in a separate container. I always superfat! I usually add an additional 2-3 ounces of shea, cocoa butter, jojoba, olive oil and vegetable glycerin to the soap 1/2 hour before it is finished cooking, stir it in, and let it cook another wee while until it is done. Then, I let it cool a little, add my essential oils and any color, and mold it. It is easier to work with cold process soap, because it is thinner, but more difficult to wait the month or more to use it! BTW, you can buy a cheap PH test strip to make sure your soap is in the 8 PH range before you use it. Essential Depot and Brambleberry have fantastic soap making supplies. With lye, you can fine is sometimes at the hardware store, but be sure it is 100% potassium hydroxide, and does not contain any other ingredients. So happy you posted this!!! I love your recipes, and your book, and now know you are a fellow soaper!! (kind of addicting, isn’t it? I was in bed last night unable to sleep because I was thinking about making a new herbal blend for my soap!!

  107. Does anyone know approximately how many bars of soap this makes? Thanks!

    • It makes between 12 and 13 for me Jenny, I use silicone soap mounds that make 8 x 5.5 cm bars : )

  108. Where do you store your lye and soap making items? Thanks!

  109. Thank you for posting this! After my boyfriend and I decided we were ready to make soap, I searched endlessly for a straightforward, well written recipe. That search ended here. Yours is so easy to understand. Thank you!!!! I have one question for you, hopefully you can help.
    We wanted to add shea butter and some goats milk (frozen in ice cube tray) we were wondering if we may add these together at the end of cooking when trace had formed. Would that be ok to add those two extras in at that time? Or is there a better time to add them prior to the end?
    Thanks so much for anything you might help us with. 🙂

  110. We made this soap for the first time today and I’m just concerned because we poured the mixture into the mold and it seems to be seperating. The loive oils is kindof floating to the top. While there is a firmer mixture on the bottom. It’s only been sitting for about 20 minutes. Just wanted to see if anyone has had this experience and if it will still work. Or should I put it back in the crock pot for a while. Any responses would be GREATLY appreciated! Tons of fun to make though!

    • Sounds like you didn’t cook it long enough or mix it well enough – or both.

      The mixture should resemble a very thick pudding, and there should be no visible oil. You want to test for full saponification (turning to soap) before you pour into the mold, too.

      What I do is stir the soap several times during the cook and when it looks like it’s not separating at all anymore, I will run the spoon under cool water for a second, watch for suds, and then touch my tongue lightly to the soap on the spoon. If you feel a tingle or zap like a battery, it’s not done – there’s still free lye. Stir and cook for another 10 or 15 minutes and try again until the only result you get with the taste test is a soapy flavor.

    • yes, it sounds like it needs to cook longer. Mine usually takes about two hours in my crock pot on low. After 1 1/2 hours I usually start PH strip testing it. I don’t like the “zap test”. PH strips are super cheap on amazon, and there are like 100 in a packet. Will last you all year even if you soap twice a week! I only had one time where I had oil on top, and it was because I added super fats at the end, and added too much. Even so, after remixing it, it reabsorbed into the soap..just cured for a week or so longer than usual. That being said, it was just extra oil…and it was PH tested at 9, so I knew it was “soap”. Good luck

  111. Hello. Thank you so much for this post. I really look forward to make my own soap. I do not have a stick blender, so I was wondering if this is really necessary. Thanks.

    • It certainly helps… otherwise you will be mixing for a long time. If you plan to make a bunch of soap, you may want to get one. There are models out there that are very affordable.

  112. Nobody got back to us about our questions referring to additives. We decided to take a risk by altering this recipe, using common sense to sub the goats milk cubes for water, and adding shea butter right after trace. We wanted to share that our first time making soap was a HUGE success! Our soap is on my instagram page, I wish I could show you here how perfect it came out! And so creamy and sudsy! Perfect Ph, and it looks so beautiful. We’re already using this base recipe again for a second batch! Making soap is our new addiction! Cheers to bravery in soap making!

  113. I’ve finally gotten all the ingredients to make this crockpot soap but have one major question….what size crock pot did you use for your posted recipe? Can’t wait to try this and thank you for this recipe.

    • The larger, the better in most cases. It really depends on the size batch you’re making. But the soap tends to expand (we call it volcano-ing) and can come right up out of the pot if you’re not watching it and stirring it down every 5 minutes. So make sure you have plenty of head room in the pot. For example my oils & lye take up about 1/3 of the volume, but during the cook have been known to expand to the very top.

  114. PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE remember that you can only use Stainless Steel “metal” and nothing else!! (Wooden spoons, etc. are ok, but when using “metal” only SS!!! Now they have pots and spoons that are just “coated” with Stainless Steel, make sure it’s STAMPED Stainless Steel. The best thing is to go to a 2nd hand store or Goodwill/Salvation Army and get the old stuff that is stamped. If there is a scratch in your new stuff that is only coated aluminum, as soon as the lye reacts with the aluminum, the batch will be ruined. It’s not worth all the effort and the ingredients. Trust me!! (I don’t use a crock pot – I use the SS pans and do the old fashioned method.) Hope this helps!!

  115. Has anyone ever tried putting soap into a twist-up or push-up tube like you’d use for a lotion stick? Thinking that would be a great way to make a travel soap. . .but it might stick to the sides so that it wouldn’t “advance”. . .

  116. Thank you, so very comprehensive.

  117. Hi Katie, Just made “lye” soap for the first time. Hey its a snow day and nothing else to do…. I have followed the directions to a T. With the exception of turning the heat on the crockpot down to low after mixing the lye and oils. I forgot and left it on High. The result? After 10mintes super thick mashed potatoes that have been sitting out all day kind of look and thickness. I went ahead and “poured” ( more like forced) the mixture into the lined box and it is now cooling. What to do? I am considering follwoing the advice of one reader who said you could rebatch soap by putting it back in the crock and add a bit of water til it melts again… But not really sure this will actually work. Suggestions?

    • Relax. It will be soap. It may look a bit rustic, but otherwise be fine. You just overcooked it a little. Let it cool and if you’re feeling adventurous after unmolding do the zap test. Touch the soap with the tip of your tounge and if it tastes like soap it’s fine. If there would be still active lye you’d feel kind of a zap to your tongue tip which would mean you’ll have to wait a few days longer and try again. Rinse your mouth afterwards. But I’ll doubt you’ll taste anytging but soap. And for all who worry, I’m doing the zap test of the time and my tongue is fine.
      Rebatching soap is necessary if a soap still zaps after a week or two, then something went wrong. And rebatched soap will always look rustic and sometimes rather chunky.

  118. What is the shelf life of the soap when I cut it into bars? Like if I make a bunch and don’t use them right away do they “expire”?

    • It depends on the oils you used. If you use just Coconut and Olive oil, which are pretty stable oils, it should be ok for several years. Other oils might spoil quicker, e. g. Hemp oil or Walnut oil is extremely quick to spoil and will do so in soap, too.
      If a soap goes bad, you’ll see orange spots growing on it and it will start to smell rancid. If it’s just one or two spots, cut it off and use the soap up quickly. Soap that is prone to rancidity can be frozen and keeps good that way. Still, the piece you take out of the fridge needs to get used up rather quickly.
      Rosemary oleoresin can be used to stabilise an oil that’s prone to go rancid. It can extend the shelf life of soaps quite well. I made a highly superfatted soap with Walnut oil and it was still fine almost a year later.

    • As long as it smells good and not rancid, it’s good. The only time rancidity becomes an issue is with high superfatting or using old oils to start with. You’ll know if it goes bad, but it doesn’t happen often.

  119. I have made soap for over 15 years. I got started using a cold process method and never have tried the hot process. It is the only kind my husband will use. I have even tried changing up the recipe and he carries on something terrible until he gets the original back again. I got the recipe from a lady that has terrible allergies and this was the only soap she could use. My husband was a mechanic back then and he was constantly washing his hands with harsh products. They were so dry they would crack open and bleed. He’s retired now but still loves the soap. As I said, it is a cold process. Mix 16oz water with 6oz lye…outside. Let cool to between 95 and 105 degrees. While that is cooling mix 16oz olive oil, 8 oz coconut oil and 17.5oz shortening. I have also added some natural color just for me. Ha! I mix the lye and the oil when they are both between 95 and 105 degrees F. Always add the lye to the oils. Add any essential oil fragrance you like at that time. I do lavender EO a lot for me….from where??? Mountain Rose Herbs of course. Anyway, I use a stick blender to mix and it comes to a trace within a minute +/-. I use a 3″ plastic water pipe lined with waxed paper as a mold. It slides right out the next day and I slice it up and let it air dry on baking racks for 3-4 weeks. Then wrap it pretty and enjoy.

  120. I tried this recipe and decided to add some bentonite clay to it. So that may have also confounded my results. I used a stick blender but it wasn’t charged fully so quit running after about a minute and a half. I stirred for awhile, but I now realize it wasn’t long enough for trace: the lye-oils mixture looked like thin béarnaise sauce.

    I let it cook a little in the crockpot and it looked like hardening wax but the sides didn’t fall in. I poured it into molds after adding the clay (yes, why I think adding something else when clearly things aren’t going to form will help does seem crazy now).

    It has hardened a bit, but is still goopy, and we’re going on three weeks. Am I correct in thinking that it will eventually harden? I was unsure if it would be best to

    1. wait and see. Patience is not a strong suit with me.
    2. pop it out of the molds and rebatch. My stick blender has been plugged in and charging so it won’t die this time after only a minute and a half. Unless it chooses to give up the ghost completely, but that’s a separate issue.
    3. make a new batch of the recipe with no clay and melt this clay batch down and mix it.

    When I was washing up my soap slow cooker, I didn’t think to wear gloves and my hands did get a little red and burny, so clearly the lye was still in an active state. I’d like to be able to use the clay batch as body soap but am unsure if the lye will have reacted with the oils properly since it never came to trace. Not even false trace.

    Thanks for whatever insight you might be able to provide!

  121. 2 questions:
    First, when do I add coloring, like tumeric?
    Second, I notice that when I spoon my done soap into molds, I have to move really fast. Even then, sometimes, my soap comes out kind of chunky. It’s not a smooth soap, but kind of lumpy. Why is this?

    • Add coloring at any point during the process. But it will mix much easier if you add it toward the beginning, or at trace. To make your soap more workable at the end, increase your water content about 10-20%. I spoon the hot soap into my molds quickly and then slam them several times on the floor during filling to tamp out any air pockets. That helps with the texture.

  122. Can anyone tell me if they use this soap if they have eczema?? Does it cause any irritation.

    • “This soap” would be a subjective and hard to answer. Properly made/cured crockpot soap with some beneficial superfatting should be helpful to those with eczema. But it’s possible if you made a mistake (newbies can and do), and the soap was lye heavy – it could create problems especially for those with irritated skin already. I am my own guinea pig, and believe all soapers should be too. Start out with small batches and try it on yourself before giving it away or using it on anyone else (i.e. children or babies).

  123. What is the best way to store the spam after it has set for a week or so?

  124. First and foremost, Congratulations on the new baby!!! Such a BLESSING from God. Hope all is well and the whole family is adjusting! Secondly, Thank you so much for all your knowledge and letting us into your “head” with what you have found along your journey to a healthy lifestyle. I am definitely one of those moms who have been exceedingly blessed because of you and your site! Last but not least, I want to add oatmeal to this recipe but being new to soap making don’t want to just “try it” and was wondering if you could inform me of when in the process to actually add it and what type of oats would you recommend? I want to use up my stash since going grain free but don’t want to waste them! THANKS SO MUCH FOR ALL YOU DO!!

    • Thanks so much, and thank you for reading. You can definitely add oatmeal. I’d recommend using 1-2 tablespoons per pound of oils/fats to make sure it is a good ratio and grinding the oats into a meal/powder first so there aren’t big chunks in the soap. Typically, ingredients like this are added after the soap comes to trace and right before putting into molds, but it might be a good idea to find a recipe that includes oats to make sure the proportions are right.

  125. you have some of the most beautiful and fun soaps i have ever seen! I have recently been converted to the power of homemade soap, I am going to order my first shipment from bulk apothecary and i am wondering what you may think are “essential soap making materials” are? please let me know. thanks so much and once again i love your blog!

  126. Hi Katie.
    Regarding lye. Do you know anything about this: I’ve read there are several different methods in creating sodium hydroxide. Some of which leave traces of asbestos, mercury, or aluminum in the final product. Not a lot, but still there. There is a method which is more expensive to do, but less used, that can avoid this (and I’m assuming that this is what “food grade” lye is). Again, just asking if you’ve read up on this/know about this. My concern of course is whether the final bar will be leaching these toxins if I just by the hardware store 99% lye. There are so many opinions…what is yours.

  127. If I half a batch of HP soap, will the cook time be less? How much less? Thank you. I used olive, coconut, and shea by the way. Just wondering if that would make a difference as well.

  128. Hi, this is a fantastic blog, I like and read a lot. Btw, Castille soap name is not named after France but Spain. Madrid region of Spain is called Castillia and even Spanish language which is spoken there is called Castillian.

    • Good catch, not sure how I overlooked that!

  129. I made this soap and it turned out great!! It has been drying on the racks for a week. How long should I allow it to dry and how do I need to store it?

    • It should be dry by now 🙂 For hot process soap, a week is usually good. I just store in an airtight container

  130. Thank you for your wonderful blog. A few questions first what is the best way to line the soap mold (rectangle mold) with the parchment paper? I did one big sheet last time but then had fold marks in the ends. Also, I am drying a batch right now that I made a few days ago. Will the fragrance weaken over the three weeks of drying being that it is not in an enclosed container.

    • You can fold the edges of the paper, similar to how you would fold paper when wrapping a gift to avoid bunched up paper at the ends. The fragrance will seem like it weakens over time because the edge that is exposed to the air will lose its scent somewhat, but much of the scent is within the soap and will be released as the soap is used.

  131. Can’t you buy something like this in bulk from Amazon that is already prepared in a block, can be melted down and poured into molds? I was thinking it was mentioned here but can’t find the link. Thank you

  132. Hi, could I cut the ingredients in your recipe in half or by a 3rd, and make the soap that way? I.e. the same ratio.

  133. Thanks for these recipes! Can you tell me when/how to add zinc oxide to the soap by chance?

  134. I cut the recipe in half and the recipe never hit a boil. I believe that I cooked it to long because when I did get the temp up above 212 and decided to cut the heat off, the soap was too dry to put into a mold. I did additional fats and got it into a mold. Might be ok. I’m not sure what went wrong. Can you help?

  135. I just tried this recipe and didn’t read the whole thing so I didn’t use a crock pot to make it. Now my soap will not harden. It’s been covered for 3 days and it’s still not completely hard. What do I do with it now? Is there a way to re-batch it?

    • If your soap hasn’t hardened by now, it’s possible you didn’t stir it to full trace. You can still produce a cold process soap if your recipe was correct. If you followed a given recipe to the letter, then stir what you have (preferably with a stick blender or egg beater) until it looks like thick custard. At that point, you could put it into the crockpot and continue to make soap, or put it back into your mold and wait about 24 hrs. If you decide on Cold Process, you may want to incubate the container during the 24 hr wait.

  136. Is there an easy location, that can help us determine what are the benefits of using different oils in our soap recipe? Ex and I assume I am correct:

    Olive oil ads a moisturizing component but low in lather
    Bees Wax adds hardness to a soap

    • This site is used by many soapmakers. There is a wealth of information there.

      http://soapcalc.net/

  137. I usually make bay leaves oil (most commonly known as “Tejpatta” in Hindi) and olive oil soap (83% olive oil and 16% bay leaves oil) and this smells very nice. What I wonder is I am planing to make this recipe which 50% olive oil and 50% coconut oil. Do you think I can get The coconut smell from this?

    • Yes, there will be a slight coconut scent 🙂

    • I’ve made it several times and there isn’t even the slightest bit of a coconut scent but perhaps it depends on the brand of oil. I use the organic Nutiva from Costco.

  138. I’ve never made soap before. I see lots of soap making recipes, but I don’t know whether they mean to use lye crystals or liquid lye. How do you know what to use? Can you use either? Does the recipe need to be adjusted in some way?

    • I use pure lye crystals and am careful to follow the directions on the package carefully for mixing with water.

  139. I would like to make this recipe for my bridal shower giveaways but I bought plastic molds at michaels and I’m wondering if I can let the mixture cool a bit before placing them in the molds that I bought because if i put them in right away, the molds might melt?

    • To be honest, if you’ve never made this type of soap before, I’d recommend you use melt & pour glycerin soap for that project. So much simpler. But if you know what you’re doing and want to use crockpot HP soap, once it’s fully saponified you have to let it cool a bit before you add fragrance. You’ll be fine with most molds because the soap needs to end up at about 125-150 degrees, no hotter than melted chocolate or other hot candy items which those molds are likely created for. Another issue is the flash point of the fragrance or essential oils you’ll use – you want to know that. Too hot, and you’ll just burn off all the scent. Hope that helps.

      • I’d never made soap before attempting this recipe and method and it’s SO easy! I have complete control over the ingredients, which is great because I can avoid everything harmful. by using only organic.

        Melt and pour soaps often still have propylene glycol, sulfates and artificial colors. All fine if you don’t mind exposing yourself to that kind of junk.

        I’d highly recommend HP soap over CP soap, no worrying about oils and lye water being around the same temperature and no long curing time 🙂

        But many people also swear by CP. It’s an individual thing I suppose. I always use HP, have never lost or ruined a batch, and now have over 6 kinds of soap I make 🙂 You could say I’m addicted, lol.

  140. Oh my! Love the blog. I use bulk apothecary for my soap materials. How do these soap supplies compare to yours?

  141. I actually scrolled through ALL the comments and couldn’t seem to find anyone asking about the superfat of this recipe. Is there one?? I’ve heard a lot about more than 30% coconut oil being drying because it cleanses so well. I would imagine this could be avoided by a high superfat. But how high? I’ve also heard of 100% coconut oil soap with a 20% superfat. . . .so would 8-10% be good for this recipe? Or is the 50% olive oil enough? 🙂

    Personally, I’ve never had an issue with this soap but would like to sell it, so am concerned about it being drying to my customers.

  142. I am new to the Homemade soap thing and I am wondering how long it will be good for. does it expire? and where have you found the cheapest place to get supplies? I originally was given a recipe as a reference point but honestly, I feel lost. thought? thanks so much

  143. Sorry just want to double check to see if you have used a crockpot plastic liner for cooking soap and if it changes anything. Have you used a liner?

  144. Can you substitute the water for glycerin for this recipe to massively reduce the “cook” time?

  145. I plan to make a pure coconut oil soap base, but wondering if you can replace the olive oil with any oil….sunflower or hemp for example, or does the type of oil change the amount of lye needed..?

  146. i like to just use the coconut oil and not the olive oil can i just double to coconut oil amount?

  147. My soap is going away or disintegrating fast when I leave it in the shower. I go through bars pretty fast. If I happen to heave it in water, the soap literally melts away. How can I make tge soap harder?

    • Is it this 50/50 olive oil & coconut oil soap that you have? The most important thing to do with any handmade, natural soap is to let it dry out between uses. A 100% coconut oil soap will be harder but use a lye calculator for your recipe. And make sure you super fat at 10% or much more, even 20%.

      I have some of this soap still from a batch I made last year and it’s hard! Time will do that 🙂 Because all the water will evaporate from the soap.

      Oils that are solid at room temperature will yield a harder bar. Except olive oil, while initially soft, it will yield a hard bar with long cure times.

      There’s a lot to know when it comes to making soap! 🙂 I always say Google, Google and Google some more. And have fun!

      • Ok thanks. I will look for a coconut oil that is hardened at room temp. Right now the coconut oil I use is liquid at room temp.

  148. I really need to chat with you, I don’t understand how to calculate lye amount to be used for vegetable oil that solidify at room temperature.
    each time I made soap its either its oiling when it solidify or/and fails to harden up.

    I need you to teach me the right measurement in Kilograms. I am just a beginner

    Thank you

  149. I apologize if this was already asked and I missed it, but can you use this as shampoo? I have seen shampoo recipes and they seem very similar to this? thanks!!

  150. Yes, you can! I make bar soap and have tried several as shampoo bars, some are better than others. Of course, we all have unique hair and there is an adjustment period to transitioning from bottled, store bought stuff, but you can definitely try this. Following with an apple cider vinegar rinse is popular. I do every time.