Once upon a time I created a hyaluronic acid serum in my kitchen, then later made a niacinamide moisturizer. I’m a big fan of DIY kitchen concoctions (as you can tell by now!). One of the most asked questions I got on those recipes was how to combine the two active ingredients.
This HA and niacinamide moisturizer does just that. You get all of the hydrating benefits of HA and the skin boosting benefits of niacinamide in one easy lotion.
Marrying Hyaluronic Acid and Niacinamide
Niacinamide is a form of the water soluble vitamin B3. We need it in our diets, but it also has some impressive skin benefits. Research has found niacinamide can help with hyperpigmentation to make skin tone more even. Other studies show it improved the skin barrier and rosacea symptoms.
It also decreases moisture loss and improves acne and blemishes. A 2005 study found that women who used niacinamide on skin had significant skin benefits. They had better skin tone, fewer lines and wrinkles, and better elasticity.
Our skin naturally contains hyaluronic acid (HA) and it’s a big part of our skin and dermal metabolism. HA plays a key role in wound healing and tissue repair and stimulates growth.
Both hyaluronic acid and niacinamide add moisture to skin, lower inflammation and stimulate collagen. They complement each other well and are often combined or layered together. Hyaluronic acid is a good humectant, while niacinamide also improves overall skin health.
More Skin Loving Ingredients
While hyaluronic acid and niacinamide are the active ingredients, they need a little help to become a moisturizer. I’ve opted for a blend of oils, shea butter, beeswax and water that makes skin feel soft and moisturized.
Carrier oil – this provides the bulk of the lotion. Sweet almond, grapeseed, olive, or avocado are some good options. I like avocado and olive oil for drier skin types.
Shea butter – Smooth and creamy, shea butter is full of essential fatty acids, softens skin, and reduces inflammation.
Hydrosol or distilled water – This helps to thin the lotion and incorporate the water soluble HA and niacinamide. Hydrosols are the plant waters leftover from essential oil distillation. They offer many of the same skin benefits but are much gentler on skin.
Tamanu oil – Tamanu is a dark, rich color and is great for acne prone skin or aging skin. It has skin regenerative properties and its rich in antioxidants. If you don’t have any, then jojoba, apricot kernel, or any other skin oil will work. The idea is to give the cream an extra boost of concentrated active ingredients.
Adding Essential Oils
I love adding essential oils to my DIY products. They not only smell nice but they’re antimicrobial, improve skin health, and uplift the mood. Some of my favorite skin-friendly essential oils include lavender, wild orange, frankincense, and geranium.
The essential oils are diluted to about 2% in this recipe, but you can cut the amount in half if you have more sensitive skin.
Tips for Making Hyaluronic Acid and Niacinamide Moisturizer
I’ll often stick to easy oil based “lotions” like my favorite basic lotion recipe. While they’re technically not lotion since they don’t have any water, they do last much longer. That won’t work for this recipe though since both hyaluronic acid and niacinamide dissolve in water, not oil.
Unfortunately, water based products have a much shorter shelf life. This moisturizer combines the best of both worlds and uses mostly oils, waxes, and butters with enough water to dissolve the active ingredients. Water also helps it to feel lighter on the skin so it sinks in beautifully.
I’ve also opted for some emulsifying wax to help combine the water and oils together. Without it the moisturizer separates and doesn’t work. Beeswax helps to thicken the lotion, but it doesn’t replace the emulsifying wax.
An Important Note on Preservatives
Since this recipe includes water, it does need a preservative. Bacteria can start to grow in water within minutes under the right conditions. By storing the item properly, using distilled water (or better yet, hydrosol), and a natural preservative, it greatly extends the shelf life.
Leucidal Plus is a good broad spectrum preservative I’ve used before. A lot of people ask about using rosemary extract or vitamin E instead, but those aren’t actually preservatives. They help slow oxidation and preserve the shelf life of oils, but they won’t prevent microbes from growing in water.
If you don’t want to use the preservative, then store the lotion in the fridge and use it within 2 weeks. That said, a preservative is the safer option.
Here’s how to make it!
Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid and Niacinamide Moisturizer
Equipment
- Stand mixer (or hand-held mixer)
Materials
- 2 tsp shea butter
- 1 tsp tamanu oil (or jojoba, apricot kernel, or any liquid oil)
- 2 TBSP avocado oil (or any liquid carrier oil)
- 2 tsp emulsifying wax
- 1 tsp beeswax pellets
- 3 TBSP distilled water or hydrosol
- 2 tsp distilled water or hydrosol
- 1 tsp niacinamide powder
- ½ tsp hyaluronic acid powder
- ½ tsp leucidal complete preservative
- 20 drops essential oil
Instructions
- To the top of the double boiler add: shea butter, tamanu, avocado oil, emulsifying wax, and beeswax. Heat over medium heat until completely melted, stirring ocassionally.
- Add the water or hydrosol, niacinamide powder, Leucidal Plus, and hyaluronic acid powder to another bowl and whisk to combine. Set aside.
- Once the oil based ingredients are melted, pour the mixture into the bowl of the stand mixer. Cool in the freezer for about 10 minutes or until firm, but not frozen.
- Add the essential oil. Using the whisk attachment on your mixer, whisk the oil based ingredients until smooth, creamy, and white.
- Slowly add the water mixture to the mixer as it's whisking. Whisk for about 1 minute or until thoroughly combined.
- Pour the lotion into a clean jar.
Notes
Shelf Life and Storage
Like any skincare product this needs to be stored away from direct light and heat. Aka not next to a steamy shower or in the car! Also, be sure to use clean, dry hands when scooping any out of the jar to help prevent contamination.
You can store the lotion in a pump lotion bottle or a squeeze bottle with a large enough opening. This helps to reduce any germs from hands getting in the jar.
What are some of your favorite DIY skincare items to make? Leave a comment and let us know!





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